sounds to me like you need to watch the dash voltmeter
if it reads zero , running the PCM , and spark all die
as does engine stall.. so that is first. Voltage.
if the gauge is missing like on some cars, (sad) add one
or connect any voltmeter to the CIG lighter socket (aka. power port today)
or go to any auto store and buy the cheap tool that fits there.
called a battery/alt tester (some have LEDs that shift to good , bad)
a real voltmeter works better showing real volts.
When and engine dies. the PCM sees this, and tries everything
in its power to stop that, (fuel and air supplies)
but failed. as the PCM falls below the 300 RPM it knows it lost the battle and then goes to boot up self tests. with the CEL glowing
if it fails to show the CEL, (stalled) that means in all cases...
the PCM lost power.
lost DC power distribution. for many a reason.
from loose or bad fuses, or bad ignitions switch or as per above
filthy battery lugs.
how i fix these, (sure it must fail to fix it....... or go broke guessing)
- i drive with the voltmeter connected full time. per above.
- I say it drop. to 0v driving. oops. that is bad.
- I then move the red test lead (black is on body ground)
- I move it forward in the path of power distributution, that means to the fuse box in cab that runs ECU power.
- I then see if the power is lost before that fuse or after.
- i before i work to the engine bay main fuse box. PDC.
- I then find the point power does not drop
- the failure IS between those 2 points,!!!