Does anyone have information about what type of clutch linkage this vehicle uses and ideas for troubleshooting/ fixing ?
The car has sat for a number of years and been driven short distances a few times during that span. Then I noticed the clutch pedal got quite a bit stiffer one time and then the next time it went to the floor and won't return fully.
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Hello Mr. Hopkinson! Not knowing what vehicle you are having trouble with or any other information on how it is driving, I can only offer some ideas. If you have an older vehicle with a mechanical clutch and the pedal stays up when you pull it up, it tells me that the return spring is present and still has enough strength to hold the weight of the pedal. I can only suggest at this point to inspect the return spring, the area on the floor board around the clutch pedal and the linkage from the pedal to the transmission. Make sure the spring hasn't sprung, there are no obstructions and/or damaged linkage.
If your vehicle is newer, using a hydraulic system, you most likely are low on fluid. It isn't a bad idea either way to take a quick look at the components for your own knowledge and safety. By doing so you will know if there is an external leak or if there is more work to come.
there's also a clutch slave solenoid which typically sits on the firewall,. it's sort of like a booster to the clutch and would cause the problem you are experiencing... to locate, find your booster and follow the lines... Best regards Ck
You may not have got all of the air out of the clutch line Try bleeding it again. The sequence is as follows:
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don’t forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don’t introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits securely over the bleed nipple which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles.
Do not put oil in this system.It uses brake fluid in the reservoir.If the system doesn't have any fluid in it, there is a leak, and both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave should be replaced. They both were used the same amount of times, and wear evenly. When you add fluid, the clutch master cyl compresses the fluid down the line/hose into the clutch slave cyl. This depresses the clutch fork/arm and disengages the clutch disc so the input shaft into the transmission stops moving, allowing the trans to be put into gear. LOOK FOR THE FLUID LEAKING TO ISOLATE THE PROBLEM. This is a closed system, and the fluid never gets used, unless there is a leak.
Sounds to me like the ignition module went out. I would test the ignition module, then I would test the clutch safety switch. If these test out fine I would test the starter and replace it if it is suspected to be bad.
No lights really seems like the battery might be dead, or a fuse is blown. Check the main and alt. fuses.
ok every time you open the clutch resevoir you have to bleed the slave ..next hold down the clutch to the floor open the bleeder screw 10 mm bolt and then close it and pick the pedal up off the floor if your clutch is not right the pressure plate is failing most likely on mitstu stuff ...bleed first ..