I off the rad and fan and replaced the water pump gasget. Now I'm haveing trouble getting the belt back on?
SOURCE: Eagle Vision overheating
look for bleeder screw on thermostat housing or front middle of intake manifold area.open bleeder while vehicle running bleed air out.
SOURCE: water pump
Disconnect battery, the first time you lay a wrench across the posts you'll understand why...Drain radiator. If petcock at bottom of radiator doesn't work, pull the bottom radiator hose. You will probably want to remove the radiator rock-guard under bumper first. LOTS more room to work. Just pop out the plastic retaining pins and slide it under the vehicle out of your way. *TIP* DO NOT lay under the hose b/c it's easier to reach, keep your mouth closed, and have the catch pan for the coolant already under the vehicle. While you are down there, look for an inline connector on the trans. cooler line(near center bottom of radiator). Use two wrenches to disconnect these and have something clean to plug the line with, it WILL leak. Disconnect top rad. hose and overflow hose(located on base of radiator fill). Disconnect the TOP trans. fluid cooler line. Remove four fan shroud retaining bolts. Don't lose. Remove radiator mounting bolts(2). Lean the fan shroud against the pulleys/belt and remove the radiator. Three hands would be nice right now as you will need to wriggle the trans cooler line around the shroud mounts and lower trans cooler line to get it out. Be patient, it WILL come out. Remove the fan shroud from vehicle. Loosen the clutch fan bolt w/ a clutch fan wrench( lg. Channel Lock) or a lg. crescent wrench. Serpentine belt might hold it tight enough, might not. If not, remove belt and use a strap wrench to hold onto the water pump pulley while loosening clutch fan bolt. Probably has reverse threads. Righty loosey instead of lefty loosey. Now remove the heater core coolant return line from right side of water pump. Look at top of water pump, there is a 1-1/2" hose you will need to loosen so the WP will come out. Start at 12 o'clock position and remove the WP bolts, keeping them in order as you take them out as they are different lengths. ***** You should be able to gently pry the WP away from the engine block now. If not, look for more bolts in the WP. There is one near the top that is easy to miss, hard to see. Now you can clean all the old gasket from the engine block in preparation to put the new WP on.
You will prob be better off getting a new WP as most have a life-time warranty and rebuilts do not. (saved me $57.09!!)Most new WPs will have a thread protector on the pulley that will need to come off. Next you should put a thin layer of high temp RTV(Permagasket, etc.) on the WP and the back of the gasket. Using 1 or 2 of the longer bolts as guides you can carefully re-install the WP to the engine. Torque the WP bolts evenly a little at a time. Go back up to " ***** " and you should be able to reverse order the instructions from there. Remember to use the O ring for the heater core coolant return line. Mine still leaks there but hopefully I'll get that fixed tomorrow, even if I have to get a replacement tube. Good luck.
SOURCE: RADIATOR FAN
If you've got the hydraulic fan, check to see that the solenoid at the power steering pump is plugged in. My 1993 3.0 had this happpen, and that's what was wrong. You have to pull the front passenger side wheel off to access the pump. Just stick your hand up in there and feel around. You'll find it. One way to check is to let the car idle and turn the a/c on full blast. You should hear the fan start to roar after a few seconds. If it doesn't, then check the solenoid wire. Worked for me!
SOURCE: Do I change water pump when having timing belt changed
I would go to auto zone and get a diagram and the timing belt and do it yourself and the water pump (no it does not have to be changed everytime the timing belt is changed but if the car has over 60,000miles then it is best to change them both) it is not that hard especially if the car is not out of time just make sure you disconnect the negative side of the battery
SOURCE: 2002 chrysler 3.5 overheating - new rad, water
It can a the first stage of blowing head gasket.
Fill your coolant tank to the full mark when it's COLD.
Start the car, and pay close attention to the tail pipe for a small puff of white smoke.
After 15 minutes,If you do see any vapor then take the car for a 8 minutes drive.
Park the car and listen for bubbling sound from the coolant tank,
If you see bubbles coming up then you will need a head gasket change real soon.
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