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Re: Engine Knock.....Mystery Unsolved!!!!
Hi i worked on engines most of my life and done conversions and my advice would be to anybody thats not used to doing this type of job is leave well alone stick with the oridginal engine as you will find it will not be straight forward and its a big enough job to start with i know these are not best engines stick a quality oil in and change filter regular yates210456
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check oil level if low add oil ---if oil milky in color like chocolate milk possible internal damage from --blown head gasket-damaged head --the knock from engine usually means that damage to a piston rod has occurred [rod knock] and knock usually doesnt throw an engine code and usually fatal to engine will need a mechanic to diagnose how bad or what extent the noise is with engine
Nathan, 2 Knock's are located under intake manifold.
Check the attached links,
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The pcm uses the knock sensor to monitor for engine knocking, and adjusts ignition timing based on this. If there is no knock sensor present, you will wind up with a hard fault that will keep the check engine lamp on continuously. Also, the truck will go into a more conservative driving mode to prevent knocking. The knock sensor for a frontier is not terribly expensive, but it is a pain to access on nissan v6s, under the intake manifold
caused by hot and lean.
which engine.??? at least 3 choices.
most have knock sensors. and will not knock.
if it really is knock then that is serious.
knock means detonation or ping.
if its just noise say that,
real PING happens under load.
1: check fuses.
2: check knock sensor for outside damage.
3: SCAN the PCM. do you have any DTC errors/
4: do a full 60k tune up. maybe its lean because the fuel filter is clogged.
There are two knock sensors located on top of the Engine, approximately in the middle of the 4 cylinders at each bank. To get access to the sensors the black plastic engine cover with the "Jaguar V8" imprinted on has to be removed.
There are two types of knock sensors. The "old" ones that are of a "screw-in barrel type" and the newer ones that are just bolted on.
I describe the replacement of the bolt-on type knock sensor on Bank 2 in the following documentation on a 1999 XJ8 AJ27 engine.
Be careful! Knock sensors are piezo electric devices that are very sensitive! If dropped, over-torqued or struck they will probably be destroyed. As knock sensors are sensitive to a sudden temperature change they are also easily fractured by steam blasting a hot engine. So handle the knock sensors with great care and let the engine always cool before fitting a new sensor!
Open the hood, and disconnect the battery negative cable with a wrench.
Locate the black rubber air intake tube that runs from the air cleaner box to the throttle body on top of the engine.
Loosen the clamp on the air intake tube at the throttle body with a wrench. Grasp the tube and pull it off the throttle body inlet, and move it out of the way.
Locate the knock sensor. It's bolted to the engine near the throttle body. Remove the hold-down bolt attaching the knock sensor to the engine block, using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench with a 12 mm socket attached.
Follow the electrical lead of the knock sensor to its connector, and simultaneously lift the plastic tab with your hand while gently pulling apart the plug.
Remove the knock sensor from the engine bay. Compare the old sensor to your new part to ensure they are identical.
Reattach the knock sensor to the engine block by threading in the original holding bolt by hand. Snug the bolt with the ratchet wrench and 12 mm socket. Do not over-tighten the bolt.
Plug the new knock sensor into the original electrical plug.
Gently push the throttle body air intake tube onto the throttle body. Tighten the hose clamp with a wrench.
Reconnect the battery's negative terminal with a wrench. Close the hood.
Start your Subaru's engine. Take the car on a test-drive and verify that the spark knock has disappeared.
The idle issue is normal. The idle is controlled by the ECU. There are no adjustments for the idle. Regarding the knocking noise, that could be several things, and I am hesitant to comment without hearing it. Take it to a Toyota Dealer & have a tech listen to it. We are very good at identifying noises on the service drive.
I had the same problem. The dealership wanted to charge me $12,000.00. I told them where they could go...The problem with my engine (I also found out this is common with this style,year,whatever) the timing chain busted...NOT the timing belt, but the chain inside. I had the engine rebuilt.