Balljoints upper &lower

normally on most vehicules the balljoint is held in by a nut and cotter pin or just a teflon lock nut,in the prior case ,straighten the cotter pin and remove, then remove the nut,then using a balljoint seperator and a hammer remove the joint.in the second case just remove the nut and proceed with the seperator and hammer.but on some vehicules there is bolts and nuts that has to be removed.if i were you i would completely clean the balljoint first and inspect it to see which one of these methods have to be applied.

need to know if its 2 or 4 wheel drive. 2 wheel drive bj is part of lower control arm
4 wheel drive the bj can be replaced separately.if you can clarify i can give proper procedure

Rebleed the brakes, front to rear starting with the furtherest wheel in back. It may take several times to get all the air out of the system. You also need to center the safety valving, the brake lights on the dash will go out when its right. It can take 3 times. Your right caliper could be sticking and you may need to grease or recheck the hardware.

There are also bearings under the tops of the shock towers on some Mercury models. They give the same problems as bad upper balljoints. Check your part number for the 1/2 shaft if that is the side sticking out. Some manufactuers used 2 sizes of shafts to reduce Torque steer and I do not know if it is possible to install the wrong side, but recheck the number.

If you had a change in the balljoint you usually need a frontend alignment. With frontdrive vehicles it can be a 4 wheel alignment. You do not know how much the tierod or rack and pinion ends were previously adjusted to compensate for wear. And if the old side sticks out more than the new side you may have bad parts there too.

A Vacuum bleeder pump does a nice job in lieu of a helper for the brakes. I do these alot and sometimes you just wonder why some are easy and identical ones are hard.

Sounds odd... Rikkalan,

(but it appears AMAZON agrees with your mechanic)

Just go to ROCKAUTO and look up your parts...

If the entire arm needs to be replaced the separate ball-joint will not be listed...

Hope this helps!!
RockAuto Parts Catalog


2001 CHRYSLER SEBRING 2 4L L4 DOHC Ball Joint RockAuto

They need to be pressed out then back in. Take it to a shop and save yourself a lot of headache

You will need to jack up the vehicle and also support it by the lower control arms as well as the frame. Remove the front wheels and place them aside.unbolt the upper control arms.....and wedge a pickle fork between the upper balljoint and spindle to knock the upper balljoint loose. Then simply reinstall the new control arms....which have the balljoints in them already.install the balljoint nuts and cotter pins and then reinstall the wheels and lower truck back to the ground.Be sure to drive vehicle to an alignment shop asap so you do not start to eat up your tires. get back to me if you have any more questions...i'm here to help!!!!!

I dont know what diagram you need. There is only one upper and lower on each side. Special tools are needed to replace the ball joints. Be sure to have everything you will need before you attempt to replace them. Be sure to get the front end aligned also .

Dear Balljoint Replacer.....
This is a very labor intensive repair.The specialty tools that you need will be an air (or electric) die grinder, and an air hammer.If you already have these then GREAT!!! If not then be prepared to invest in a good $500 purchase for these tools.Once you get the vehicle up in the air and the wheels off then place jackstands underneath the frame and the lower control arms on both sides.Keep in mind to keep the jack stands underneath the lower control arms at all times because your suspension will be under load.Remove the brake calipers from both sides and swing them around and out of the way.....no need to break open the brake system....just swing the caliper and whole hose assy out of the way. Once tis is done its time to loosen and remove both upper and lower balljoint nuts...after that is performed then it's time to shock the spindle with a hammer to release the balljoints from the spindle.Your balljoints will then be ready to be removed.Now you have to take your grinder and score your rivets that hold your balljoints in on both the upper and lower so the top of the rivets are ground down to the control arm.Next take a punch and hammer the rivets in a downward movement to release the rivets and you can remove each balljoint like that.
The new balljoints install with nuts and bolts.Install is reverse of disassembly If you have any questions get back to me...HOPE I COULD HELP!!

that easy have a allginment performed on it but first check for play in your upper and lower balljoints and tie rod ends if they hay play in them then a allginment is a waste of money. first get the front end off the ground then take a big pair of channel locks and start check those balljoints and tierodends its easy just put side of the plairs on the nut side then the other side of the plairs beside the balljoint then squez if the balljoint moves up and down then you know you have a bad balljoint and you can follow the same instructions for the tierod ends then after you replace the balljoints or tierod ends get a allginment performed

You need front balljoints. Lower ones if the inside is wearing. upper ones if the outside is wearing out