My car was driving just fine until I was about 40 miles from home, and I was driving on the freeway about 70 mph, and all of a sudden it drops down to 25 mph, and the car starts sputtering. I was able to luckly get it off the freeway to the next exit where I could only drive the car no more than 10 mph or it would start sputtering.The mechanic that AAA sent out to look at before the tow truck came, thought it might be the catalyic convertor. Does anyone have any ideas on what it might be?
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Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
Step Four: More City Driving
After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.
put your emergency brake on, in park, foot on brake, and have someone lay on the ground and rap the fuel tank at its lowest point (this is where the fuel pump is) at the same time crank it to start, if it starts decide where you want to take it to avoid a tow bill and dont shut it off till your there. otherwise if it does not start, when was the last fuel filter replaced!
shouldnt worry about compression ratio pressures as yet ,if all gauges going up the swanie then either altenator is overcharging and the voltage burnt things out or a gremlin got into works when you visited the mountains in whick case call ghost busters ,must go first customer has arrived
Have you changed your fuel filter lately? I had a vehicle once whose fuel tank that had a rusty seam. Every 10,000 miles or so, the rust flakes would clog the fuel filter, and the engine would sputter and stall when the vehicle was climbing uphill. If you idled for a bit, you could drive on for a ways, until the same thing happened.
A nearly dead fuel pump could cause the same problem, I suppose.
Our family has owned Saturns since 1992. They've always been reliable out-performers, until the most recent one. I took delivery of my 2007 Hybrid Vue on 31 May, 2007. From the first tankful of gas, the mileage has been woefully short of the projections - worst case was 19 and best was 32 on the freeway at 70 mph and no air conditioning. Most recently, I drove the Vue down I-95 in Florida at around 70 and no A/C. Mileage? 28. Do the math. That's about 3 mpg better than my first Vue would have gotten. At $3 a gallon, it'll take me approximately 233,000 miles to recoup the $3000 premium I paid for the car. If you live in a climate where air conditioning is not a means of survival in the summer, then this car might be OK.