Very easy. Jack up the front of the car and support it with two sturdy jackstands. Remove the front wheels. To the brake fluid nipple on the caliper (the part that squeezed the pads against the rotor), attach a small tube leading to a drainpan, open the nipple, and push back the brake pads from the rotor with a broad screwdriver. Close the nipple. Be careful not to damage the pads if you are not replacing them. (It would be wise to replace the pads when you replace the rotors, though).
Two bolts hold the brake caliper onto the steering knuckle. Remove both bolts, preferably with an impact wrench, and remove the caliper. On some cars the bolts have indented 10mm hex-wrench heads rather than standard bolt heads, so you may need to acquire a new tool. Be careful to support the caliper so you do not damage the hydraulic brake hose. Slip the old rotor off the studs and replace it with your new one. New rotors are packed in oil which will damage your brake pads, so clean the new rotors with vinegar before installing them. Replace the caliper and pads. Check to see you have sufficient brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir before operating the vehicle. If the brakes seem at all spongy, bring your car to a qualified mechanic to inspect your work and to bleed the brake hydraulic syatem. Always do both front rotors, never just one. Otherwise, your car will **** violently to one side when you brake.
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Hey Joes, 1 problem at a time ,if brake light is coming on that is in the proportion valve ,did you have to push reset button to make light go out,? if the ABS lite is coming on what you can do to check and see if that is the problem is unplug it and try brakes ,it will deactivate ABS and give you normal braking and ABS light will be on ,see if symptyms change , also did you reset ABS sensors to the tone wheel when you replaced rotors ? I don't know what you have and I have seen some cars need a importaint reset procedure for abs to work properly. good luck I hope I gave you some good things to look at that help you.
Hey man The ABS light is most likely a speed sensor out of range. It will not effect normal braking function. You have already spent a ton of money. Chasing an ABS light fault is not cost effective and you wont feel the difference. ABS problems are a dealer only option(expensive). Take that ABS bulb out of the dash and forget about it.
A front brake pulsing with no ABS light is a rotor that is no longer true i.e warped. Pull off the tire and rotate the rotor. Hold a straight edge (ruler) across the outside of the rotor as your rotating the rotor. You will note that it changes distance on the straight edge / ruler as it rotates. (in out wobble) A good way to test for an out of true rotor is to drive at about 45 miles and hour and really stand on the brakes (do not lock them up) If the steering wheel and or brake pedal pulsate... you most likely have a rotor problem. If your rotor has never been "turned" it is probably time to do so.
The ABS sensor is behind the rotor on the lower control arm pointed outward toward the rotor with a flat button face. You can not see the button face with the rotor installed. If the sensor is bad you will have an ABS light. I think your troubleshooting the wrong problem. i.e rotor vs your current focus of the ABS sensor.
I would like some feed back on the running dynamic on the road brake test.
Chances are that you will have a faulty wheel speed sensor, or wiring to the sensor, not a faulty control unit. Connect the unit again and have the fault codes read with a suitable scan toread the fault code. This will confirm what is actually required to rectify the problem.
I think you should get the Tierod ends checked. When you get a Front-end alignment, the mechanic will check them. Although you turned the front Rotors, when you start Braking the front tires can wander differently than when they freewheel.
Sometimes you can get a rust problem on the Rotors that were just made shiny. Moisture on the pads imprints a rust blotch on the Rotor and they grab at the rust until the rust wears down. Then they are ok.
When the rear Rotors were replaced check your bill and see if the Emergency brake shoes were changed. The E brakes should have been adjusted when the Rotors were replaced. The Shimmy you describe can also be the ABS working. The ABS is a pulsating Brake action.
Get your front-end checked first, then as the mechanic road tests it when the Alignment is complete, he can judge the brakes.,
This is very common of Hondas if the front rotors have been turned(machined)off of the car or if an inferior quality rotor has been installed. Replace the front rotors and brake pads. This should cure your issue. Let me know if you need any instructions or diagrams.
The grinding sound when braking is almost surely worn brake pads. If an abs sensor is bad it will set the abs light on. Heres an easy way to figure whether to look at the front or rear brakes first. When braking, take notice as to whether the vibration is felt more in the steering wheel or the seat. If it is more in the steering wheel take a look at your front brakes first, and obviously if it is felt in the seat look at the back brakes first. Both front and rear need to be checked out because the pulsating you are feeling is due to rotors or drums that have been heated up and warped. In order to fix both problems, you most likely will need brake pads and rotors/drums. If you just replace the pads, not only will the pads wear away faster due to the damage to the rotors/drums, but your vibration issue will not go away and infact may intensify.
Your '93 Legacy was one of the first cars to provide ABS as standard. If your ABS is activating, you'll feel a fast pulsing feel when braking, is that what you experience?
If it's more of a brake pedal movement that changes frequency with the cars change of speed, and when moving slowly it feels slower and more pronounced, you likely have a warped rotor.
An ABS issue should be checked out by a Subaru mechanic. If it's the rotor, then the offending rotor will have to be machined or replaced. If you can identify the rotor that's warped (with the car on stands, rig up a steel ruler so that it touches the rotor, and spin the wheel by hand. If it touches intermittently, then the rotor is warped) you may be able to remove it yourself (buy a workshop manual for instructions) and bring it to a brake shop and have it machined. This is far cheaper than they doing the whole job.
However, if you're not comfortable with these suggestions, then have a brake shop do it for you. This is an important safety device (obviously) and worth the money to have it done correctly. Early Legacy's are pretty much bullet-proof and last forever, so the investment will be worthwhile.
Hope this helps.