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You should be able to hear a sucking sound from where the line is supposed to go. Probably on the base of the carby. You can spray a little aero start around where you think the leak might be ie: carby. the aero start will be sucked into the open vacume port & the revs of the motor will change. Sorry I don't know exactly where it goes.
Sounds like the timing is off or something wasn't synch'd up correctly during the rebuild. Check the timing and make sure the vacuum lines are connected correctly, especially the vacuum advance which advances your timing when the engine RPM's are increased. Start your timing at 5 degrees before top dead center, the 5 mark on your timing marks, this is the most common baseline setting for timing. If you have to set it advanced beyond 10 degree or retarded beyond 0 then your timing chain was not aligned correctly between the Pistons and the Valves or cam shaft.
I can't send you a diagram but I can tell you the basics that should get you mobile. Take a vacuum line from the lower front of your carb and hook it to your distributer vacuum advance. Take another from the front of your carb and run it to your EGR valve. It should be beside the carb on the intake manifold. At the rear of your carburator there is a large line coming out. It should be steel. It provides vacuum boost to your power brakes. Hook it up. Make sure all other vacuum outlets on the carb and intake are blocked off and you should be able to get mobile.
The main vacuum line from a vacuum source on the intake goes to the multi-hose valve on the top and the distributor vacuum advance.This multi-valve switching valve is the main connection to the other vacuum hoses on mine. Two lines come in from a vacuum source and thre go out to three components according to tempature. On mine the middle one off to side 1)goes to choke opener and switching vacumm valves mounted on the fenders the other middle one 2)second from top goes to another choke opener and EGR Valve and EGRModulator. The bottom hose connection is on when cold 3)and goes to a part on the carburator to help it run better when warming up a AAP valve.
There is a check valve diaprham thing inline to the EGR vlave on the second line from top.
I have another vacuum line on the drivers side of the carburator that has a check vlave inline but larger it goes to the throttle linkage to help slow the closing of the trottle on rapid deceleration.
Although this isn"t a proper fix, and may affect emissions, I ran accross this problem on a friend's 87 2wd wagon.
There is a dashpot that controls a lever the Idle set screw is on, I am guessing it is a decel valve that closes butterfly when coasting in gear. I never looked at a manual to figure out what controls the vacuum valve that is on the passenger side of the engine compartment, but if you disconect the vacuum line and plug it that lever will not back off and idle will remain where you set it with the adjustment screw.
Make sure the engine is warmed up and not on a fast idle cam before adjusting idle.
The car is a 5 speed, I not sure if automatic cars are the same.
The car idles fine now and still run's great and gets 37+ MPG with 240000 miles!
If you want to fix it properly you would have to diagnose why that dashpot is being actuated at idle
Don't bother rebuilding. If it lost oil . it's a goner. Check around town and see if anyone sells used Toyota motors shipped from Japan. They have to get rid of all vehicles with 50.000 miles by law. Wholesalers in the USA buy them cheap! I got one for my 87 MR2 for $1200 installed. Runs like a champ! SR5 engine are very popular , so you should have no problem finding one in a large town like Denver. Remember, get a warranty, even if it's for 90 days. Gives you that warm and fuzzy feeling! :)