Question about 1997 Jaguar XJ6

4 Answers

AIR CONDITIONING AND CENTRAL LOCKING

AC DOES NOT BLOW COLD AIR CENTRAL LOCKING WILL NOT LOCK OR OPEN DRIVERS SIDE DOOR

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  • 4072kb Oct 04, 2008

    other than the gas whot else would cause the air con from not blowing cold air.on the 97 jag xj6 4litre. thankyou

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4 Answers

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  • Master
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Other than gas, it could be a lot of things.

could be an electrical problem, fuse blown, switch not working, fan not working.

could be mechanical problem, compressor stuck, expansion valve won't open, dryer clogged.

regarding the door lock, open the door panel and check the vacuum valve in the door, could be the problem. check also the line going to the door, it may have a leak. check the linkage, it could be bent or would not work properly.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

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  • Master
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No overheat sensor or circuit breaker on these. The heating module in the seat base is a weak ... Nothing in the system should be impacted if the car is warmed up or not You say it seems to work .

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Oct 04, 2008

    For the A/C, buy a kit from any autoparts store....freon (actually
    R34A, not freon) and a hose with a gauge. Follow the instructions
    CAREFULLY.



    Drivers door, if you can't open it manually from inside and out, isn't eletrical. it's a mechanical problem.





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The gas of the air conditioner has finished,
for locking check the door panel

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

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  • 479 Answers

Some loose connection in the wirings leads this type of problem.

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

  • tech gurus Oct 04, 2008

    It is possible that when freeze plug blew vehicle overheated and caused high pressure in the a/c system resulting in loss of refrigerant charge



    OR

    or it could be because of feron

    Freon or 134a becomes cold while changing from a liquid to a gas, it is compressed to force it into a liquid state where it gives off heat then as it changes again the cold is used to cool the cabin and the heat is expelled through the evaporator .



    OR

    if its winter first check coolant lenvel and check coolant system for leaks. then check thermostat



    OR

    You have a broken temp blend door in your heater/AC case. You will need a new heater case, because the door is inside the case and is not available separately. You had better replace the blend door actuator as well, because that is what I have found is causing the door to break to bgin with. The stops wear out in the actuator so that it begins advancing too far in one direction or the other and it breaks the doors.

    Allen's Alternate Repair -- zero cost. Involves duct tape! (that's a plus for many of us).

    I was facing that and my car isn't worth the $750 est I got from the Ford dealer.

    I know there is an article on replacing the door through the firewall, but I didn't know how to take of the 'evaporator.' If you go that way the part is $11.00 from NAPA but it does not look easy.

    The cheap way:
    1) Drop the glovebox (push rubber stops inward). Let it hang down -- no need to remove it.
    2) Cut a flap in the plastic housing. Reach in and pull the door shut. Attach a piece of duct tape to keep the door shut.
    Duct tape your incision. I used a dremel tool -- wheel cutter normally used for metal. The plastic isn't much thicker (where you cut) than a plastic milk jug and there is nothing behind it. Drill and use a saw.

    The flap is about 4" wide by 5-6" high, if I remember (from yesterday!). It closes up really well, the plastic has a good memory, and may not even need the duct tape.

    Where to cut: You'll see the motor that controls the flap, it's wide and flat. The hole int the flapper door that the shaft goes in breaks or wears out. There is a vertical reinforcing ridge. Cut vertically at the left of that, close as you can. Cut across as high up as you can, then down as far left as you can. Do not cut the bottom. Push in and pull out with a hook made from a coat hanger. Bend flap down. Reach in, the door is far in there, pull it shut (to the left) for heat. Push the other way for cold. The hinge is closest to you with the door edge farthest away. It is plastic has foam and the edge even has a nice 1/2 wide ridge at 90 degrees that is easy to grasp. It pulls easy because it is disconnected from the motor (hence your problem).

    I suppose you could drill a hole and attach a stiff wire if you want easier control. I didn't bother. When it gets to summer, I'll just reach in and push it the other way.

    Oh, and unplug the motor in case a little friction is left to mess up your work. I also cut the fastener for the wire loom that runs near the bottom of the cuts so I wouldn't cut it. The wires are pretty secure even without the fastener

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