HAVE PROBLEM WITH 2003 FORD WINDSTAR. GOT REAR ENDED, JUST GOT BACK FROM BODY SHOP. BATTERY WAS NOT STAYING CHARGED. CHARGED IT AND IT WOULD START. ALTERNATER AND BATTERY IS GETTING GOOD CHARGE, ALSO CLEANED AROUND BATTERY TERMINAL. BUT NOW THE VAN WONT START. IT WILL CRANK OVER BUT WILL NOT STAY TURNED OVER.???
Have you checked for a fuel cut off switch? I was rearended last year and had the same issue right afterward and it was b/c the fuel cut off switch had kicked in and I had to 'unclick' it - it was located in the trunk of my crown vic - not sure where it may be in the Winstar - in the back somewhere.
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Is the system charging? You should have 14.2 14.6 volts at the battery. The charge light is controlled by the alternator internally. If the charging system is working, you could have a bad diode inside the alternator keeping the light on or a short/grounded circuit to the battery light
radiation from ignition is effectn the radio--got to get it shielded--or the vibration from the engine is disturbing it--go to a shop that specializez or to an independent mechanic--call them 1st and tellum what I sed-if they concure-then u know
Either your battery has failed or the alternator/ regulator/rectifier has. With the engine running, check the DC voltage at the battery terminals it should be above 13 volts but below 15. If it is outside this range then your alternator or regulator has failed. This is the most likely. If it is in this range then you need a new battery. As you have changed the battery it may need changing again if the rectifier has failed. but hope it is the alternator giving no output.
One of the door "sensors" (Door light switches) are to blame - they are usually mounted in the body, and determine the door is open (door position) to supply the ground to the lighting circuit...You can either locate and replace the faulty one, (unplugging each from the back-side removes them individually from circuit)--(Remember to shut all doors, then open one door and remove the
connector to each switch to eliminate it from the circuit - until the
light goes off- when it goes off- you have found yor culprit) or just pop-out the dome light bulb if it is a high miles car that you aren't interested in repairing,,,,but want the battery to stay charged....Hope that helps - the switches are usually about $5 or $6 each I think,,,,so it's just a bit of effort and time.
Sound like multi problems....the A/C has nothing to do with the lights...possible ignition sw problem.. with out knowing what options your vehicle is equipped with, try disconnecting the battery and see if it still happens...if it does you may have to take it to your dealer/shop to diag the circuit ....GL
charge battery up 2 amp slow charge,could take 24 hrs,,, put a volt meter of any kind that goes up to 20 volts or more,and it should be charging 13.50 to 14.25 with nothing on then turn ac on and fan on high and head lights on bright it should stay around13.25 to 13.75 if u dont get these readings replace alternator
to repair this problem you must remove floor lights from seats and check the circuit for either a short or a stuck switch use a multi tester this can get to be irritating as the short may be not directly behind switch could be along wiring that runs through car my suggestion if your not electrically proficient is take it to an electromechanic shop or simply unplug the light from socket to avoid draining the battery.