I am replacing the outer tie rod on my 2000 dodge neon (passenger side) and I have the basic knowlege to do this but can not get the inner tie rod to stop spinning when trying to unthread the outer tie rod. I
give it a go and the whole shaft (inner and outer tie rod
together)turn. I have tried everything I can think of to try and
keep theinner tie rod from spinning and just can't get it. There
seems tobe a small piece (clamp of some sort or something) on the
original tierod that is not with the new replacement parts... I
thaught maybeit was something from the factory that was stopping me
from getting theouter tie rod separated... I'm lost, can
you help me out?
I just got done today doing this job, soak with PB Blast where you can see the threads, esp where you see a crevice in the underside of the tie rod end, do this at night for best results, in morning spray again and an hour later put a block of wood under the tie rod, then put a pipe wrench on the tie rod so it wont turn, youll turn it enough to get the pipe wrench against the block of wood that will stop it from turning, then get on it with a large vise grip on the round part close to the threads, give it a go and it should crack fine, didnt have to use a torch and believe me WD40 doesnt work for **** on this.
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Re: replacing outer tie rod on a 2000 dodge neon
Put the tie rod back in and thread the nut on. then you turn the inner tierod with a pipe wrench or a big pair of channel locks. you can spray the threads with pb blaster or wd-40. also if ya have a propane torch this helps loosen the threads. apply heat to the outer tierod do not heat the inner. good luck jimmy
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you can do the whole job with a large crescent wrench, hammer, and pliers. Loosen the lock nut but only loosen, remove the cotter pin (if present) and joint nut. Hit joint with hammer to separate from steering knuckle. unscrew tie rod end. Compare length to new end. You will want to keep the length from the nut to the center of the hub arm attach the same or you will need an alignment. Screw the new end on and adjust to the original length. Slip back into hub, replace and tighten net, repace cotter pin. Tighten lock nut and get an alignment if you aren't sure about length. OK? Any questions, let me know.
Yes degreaser will not hurt it. The outer tie rod is retained only by one nut that connects it to the inner tie rod.Once you have this loosen just turn the outer tie rod to the left to remove it from the inner tie rod.
take the wheel off, there is a nut on the tie ron locking the tie rod end in place loosen this up (only break it free do not back way off) now take the nut offthe tie rod end that goes into the spindle, Hit the side spindle with a hammer right were the end goes in while pulling up on the tierod end (may take a few hard hits)> Now that you have the end out of the spindle you can unscrew the tie rod end from the inner tierod.*******NOTE*******measure the distance between the locknut on the inner tie rod to the middle of the outer tierod end,You want to keep that same distance or your car will pulll to one side and you'll need a wheel allignment.
This is the 1st time I heard of 2 being available! You learn something new every day. I checked and there are 2 as you say, 1. Firm feel steering inner tie rod is 293.7mm long, or 11.563 (11-1/2") inches 2. Standard feel steering inner tie rod is 274mm long or 10.7874 (10-3/4") inches long. Remove yours (count the # of turns to remove, replace new end with same # of turns to get the adjustment close and you should get a front end alignment after doing any front end work) and measure it. That's the best way to determine what you need, the 'firm feel' is about 3/4 inch longer than the 'standard feel'. Let me know how it goes.
Look behind front wheel for rod that attaches to spindle/knuckle, and moves your wheel back & forth from steering rack. The tie rod (outer) is the piece attached on the end, that is threaded on that rod, and attaches to the spindle/knuckle, behind the wheel. Grab your tire and try to wiggle it hard from side to side. (hands at 3 & 9 o'clock ) Push with one hand while pulling with the other. If there is slop, or play, you have probably got a bad tie rod end, which you can observe it move by looking at where it attaches, while someone else wiggles it. Maybe this picture will help you I.D. it.
I used this website: http://www.allpar.com/fix/intrepid-steering.html It worked perfectly. To add to it, I used a tie rod puller tool rented from Oreilly Auto Parts for only a few bucks, to press the old bushing out of the inner-tie-rod end. Worked very well. Easier than removing the entire tie rod, and hammering it out. However, removing the entire tie rod would make re-assembly easier. If I did it again, I would strongly consider removing the driver side tie rod from the car, then attaching the inner tie rod end 1st. Meaning, attach the passenger side inner tie rod 1st, then the driver side inner tie rod with new bushing, then re-attach the drivers side outer tie rod. That would probably be the easiest way on this 1996 dodge concorde, due to the fuel line that's in the way....
There is a tool that you can use that will make it easier for you. To get to the tie rod end, remove the wheel and take the outer tie rod end loose from the hub. You will have to use a hammer and hit the socket where the end goes into the hub to free it up. Once you have the tie rod loose from the hub, loosen the nut behind the outer tie rod end. Count the revolutions as you unscrew the outer end off and write te number down so you will know how far to put it back on. This will save your alignment. Now, the end that is still there is your inner tie rod end. You will have to undo the bellows boot to get to the nut. The tool will slide over the end and secure onto the nut. Now you just unscrew this and replace with you new inner tie rod end.
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if you do it yourself you need couple of tools and most important it grip plyer to hold the inner rod and you need propane touch to hit the outer/inner joint then try to open that way.
its easy that way i just replace mine few days ago.