Ive installed my clutch master cylinder rebuilt kit, however in 1 week the clutch gave out on me again. Its not leaking, it was bleed my question really is did i install the rebuilt parts properly? can you give me a step by step installation process on the rebuilt kit on the clutch master cylinder. mazda rx 7 1982
Crack the bleeder nipple on the slave cyl and get some one to slowly push the pedal see if any fluid shoots out if not you may have killed the new seal in the master cyl. it sounds like you did every thing right its just that old cylinders get were in them and if you don't hone them out and put a new sleeve in them quite often you will rip the new seal apart on the first pump of the pedal. any way check for presser and let me no
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It's leaking on the driver's side? That would be the master cylinder bolted onto the firewall. You will have to replace with a new or remanufactured clutch master cylinder. When the seals go out, the whole unit must be rebuilt. The store will give you a discount if you bring in your old one for exchange. The clutch slave cylinder will be down on the transmission bell housing. Follow the small steel line from the master cylinder. It goes right to the slave cylinder. Pretty easy to change out the master cylinder. Remove the steel line, unbolt unit from the firewall, then under the dash, there's a rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Just undo the retaining clip or pin holding the rod to the pedal. When the new unit is installed and filled with fluid, then you get to learn how to bleed the hydraulic clutch at the slave cylinder-the fun never stops.
Your clutch slave cylinder could be bad and leaking,here's a picture of it,it's bolted to the side of transmission,has a bleeder screw on it for bleeding.Normally,your fluid shouldn't be low,here's how to replace.
you clutch needs bled better, i'm currently going through this now. If bleed your clutch hydrolics, and after a few days it starts sticking again, you will need a new clutch master cylinder and slaves cylinder. About $70 at autozone. Make sure when you bleed it you get NO AIR not even little bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Bleeding the cluch is much more difficult that bleeding the brakes.
Sounds like the seal in the new clutch master cylinder. I've seen that same problem in the hand brake system in small 2 and 4 seat airplanes. ( I'm and aircraft mechanic) The problem is not air in the lines so bleeding won't help. The piston seal is intermittantly failing to seal. That is whty the function can return without any apparent reason as the seal has seated itself. The only cure is to replace or rebuild the master cylinder. ( Yes, even new or rebuilt ones can have a defective or improperly installed piston seal)
It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.
Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.
you need to find a shop then, most shops will not install customers parts, or if they do, no warranty, what so ever. you should, also at this time replace the clutch master cylinder. If you try this yourself I'm afarid you may either 1.hurt yourself,$$$ 2 break something$$$, 3 not get it together right and damage something $$$$$ 4.damage it and be without a truck for a week $$$ having it repiared properly will seem like a bargain if anything happens.
I don't have that shop manual, but the slave cylinder looks like a small brake master cylinder and is on the firewall on the driver side.
Check to make sure floor pan is not split by slave cylinder. Some had weak floors that needed reinforcing. Ford had a kit.
Otherwise, replace slave cylinder. tascafordparts.com sells at discount.
Please rate as fixya if this solves your problem.
Report back and good luck
Sounds like your clutch master or slave has devloped a leak. I can't say specifically for the RX-7's but typically cars like that run a hydraulic clutch setup. A good place to start is checking the fluid level. Since the clutch may have worn the fluid level might be low anyways, but if it appears to be empty or at the very bottom I would be checking for leaks. Master cylinders in my experiences usually leak into the cab of the vehicle. You just need to look up under the dash to where the top of the clutch pedal attaches to the master, sometimes it might be hard to see, so just feel around, if you feel any moisture theres is a good chance thats it. The slave cylinder just jack the car up and have a look underneath, follow the clutch lines down until you see the slave, these will leak externally and be easy to see. Also if either of these parts have been changed recently it wouldn't hurt to bleed the system again. Also if the master has been changed or you are going to change its always a good practice to bench bleed it first. Here is a link on the process http://www.misterfixit.com/brakbld1.htm Its written to do a brake master but they are pretty much identical.
Hope this helps