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Made a video on how to change the AC Compressor, Accumulator, Orifice Tube, and Hose Assembly on my 2003 Ford Focus 2.0L SOHC SPI. Symptoms started off as blowing hot air at idle and then it just blew hot air all the time and Firestone told me it had not compression and needed the compressor replaced. I got all my parts at AutoZone for a around $230.
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best I can suggest is watch and pay attention as you take it apart. I would do one thing at a time. remove an old part, put the new one in then move to the next. Also you will HAVE to take it to a shop as they are the only ones that can draw the vacuum into the system that it needs in order to work
Remove the washer and overflow bottle. The high side service port is on a pipe about eight inches long to make it easier for service. The fitting and orifice tube are near this pipe. The fitting is covered with a protective rubber cover that makes it hard to see the fitting.
Push the cover back.
Disconnect the fitting.
Replace the orifice tube.
Lubricate the new o-ring and torque the fitting to 18 foot pounds.
Ford says to use a special too to get the orifice tube out of the hose. I find needle nose pliers gets the job done real well unless it is really stuck then use the tool.
If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
If the compressor cycles (turns on and off) frequently, and the AC is just cool, then you are likely low on freon. Did you evacuate (pull a vacuum) the system before charging it with freon? This will also cause your problem. The orifice tube is located within a high pressure hose near the radiator or the firewall. Look for diameter size differences in the lines at connections.
The Thermal Expansion Valve has been replaced by a device called the ORIFICE tube which looks like a tiny line filter. It is an inexpensive part that can be easily removed and replaced for about $3 or less. You will follow the liquid line (smaller line running from the compressor to the firewall) to the midcenter point of the passenger side inner fender well and there will be a large rubber protector over the line. You will need to peel and tear or cut this away to uncover a nut that connects the line and there should be an "indentation" slot in the line on the side where the orifice tube is located. You must be very careful to discharge any pressure from the low side where you normally add refrigerant before you attempt to uncouple the liquid line. You must be very careful to wiggle and pull straight out (do not twist) on the orifice tube. If it breaks you must buy special tools to remove it. Place the new orifice tube back in the same position, replace any worn o-rings, use refrigerant oil to lubricate the new o-rings and retighten the nut but do not overtighten.
I believe the orifice tube on this model requires the a/c pipe to be cut to install a new tube. You need to discharge the system, replace the tube, then evacuate miosture with a vacuum pump, then recharge with R134A refirgerant. Not a job for a non technical person.
The oriifce is in the line just before the evaporator that is in your car a/c heater case. It is where the liquid refrigerant turns into a vapor as it comes out of the orifice and then it absorbs heat from the air going into you car, thus blowing cold air. Moisutre in the warm air condenses and as he iar gets cold and it drains out of your evaporator and out the drain & onto the ground