Case 580CK gas...intermitent spark at points, new coil. Condenser needed?

Might check condenser and condenser path, wiring

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what does a distributor condenser do

https://sage-answer.com/what-is-the-purpose-of-a-distributor-condenser/

What is the system voltage at the coil reading?

Hi Austin:

Counting on my fingers I make that over 25 years old, so the maintenance history and mileage become very relevant.
I'd be considering an ignition tune-up as an appropriate first step.
Changing spark plugs, plug lead harness (wires), rotor, cap, coil, Points & condenser (or solid state components.
Chances are it will show a remarkable improvement.

Your codes indicate misfires. What was done in the "tune up"? Misfires can be caused by any of several different causes including (but not limited to):
spark plugs
spark plug wires
coil packs
injectors
injector wires

The term "tune up" used to mean, "replace points, condenser, distributor cap and rotor, and plugs". Since most cars no longer have points, condenser, distributor cap and rotor, we need to ask what was done...

the coil must be grounded the mounting bracket does this and needs to be metal to metal does it have points check the gap and the condenser let me know if you need more help

Google is your friend.

The condenser (capacitor) has nothing to do with generating the hi-voltage, it is simply a filter. But it can leak or short and can affect the hi-voltage. If the condenser becomes questionable it is better to just replace it since it is so cheap.
Then I would use a point file to dress the points and reset them to the recommended gap. (or just replace, also cheap).
The coil itself could be suspect. Usually you can find the primary and secondary coil resistance online and check with an ohm meter to see if it is out of specs. The primary (- & + terminals) usually run .4 to 2 ohms. The secondary (- & coil tower) usually run 6K to 15 K Ohms.

if you have spark coming from the end of the coil wire and none coming from the cap you need to replace the rotor bug.

Hello jjcurry: My name is Roger and I will help. You are working with a very basic ignition system. The points set st .019. These older cars and trucks had a bad habit of burning up the point. The ignition would be left on and this did not work well with points. The condenser would also be damaged. If you have power to the coil down to the distributor. With the key on take a screwdriver and break the points open while they are closed. They should spark. If not check the lead wire from the coil to the distributor for a open wire. Check to make sure the wire from the condenser is not grounded at the points connection. I would suggest replacing the points and condenser. Also check to make sure the rotor and cap are in good shape. The old rotors had a habit of burning through and shorting spark to ground. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer you received. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

You might not have spark as the 12 volts needs a ballast resistor or the points burn out preytty quick. 8 volts at the coil in run with the points open and 0 with the points clsed and battery voltage at the coil when cranking. coil wire near the intake manifold while cranking should jump at least 2 inches. Closed points should be 0 volts at the neg on the coil. pos and neg should be the same 12 volts with the points open. if not either the coil or the points are bad. The condenser can fail and no spark with all the rest right