Question about 1999 Isuzu Rodeo

3 Answers

Crank - Piston Rod Bearing Replacement - Queston

Hey All,

My 1999 3.2 Rodeo has started making knocking noises at high (above 2000 Rpm). I've been told it is rod noise. I seeking a cheap (oops inexpensive!) solution.

I noticed that if the cross member is unbolted it appears the oil pan can be dropped and I might access the underside of the engine without having to pull the whole engine.

Is this (A) really an option and (B) can a replacement from below of the bad bearing possiblely save the engine?

What do I need to look for on the crank to determine if a bearing replacement will work to keep her on the road for a short time longer?

THANKS

Posted by on

  • Jim4160 Oct 28, 2008

    Why does the crank need to be re-surfaced? It is much harder than the bearing material. Couldn't the crank be undamaged if it wasn't run too long with the failed bearing?

  • Anonymous Oct 30, 2008

    hey, i actually have the same year rodeo with the same motor. I noticed what i thought was valve tap when-ever i accelerated above and around the high 2000rpm range in any gear. just recently, i took the car out on a semi-long highway trip and the noice got worse and it even does it when its in neutral abd ideling. How sure are you that its conecting rod bearings? what brought you to that conclusion?? just like you, i'm looking for the fastest and cheapest route and i'd really hate to have to pull the damn motor. lemme know what ya think.

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Not if is just the tappet meterial thats worn on the bearing. Get some plastigauge and check your clearances.

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

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You will have to have the crankshaft machined if the rod bearing is the cause of the noise, so you will have to pull the engine, if u don't do the crank the bearing will fail in a few miles.

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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I have replaced the rod and main bearings with engine still the car. I used jewelers rouge (polishing compound) to remove any surface blemishes on crankshaft-used a strip of cloth material cut to the width of crank bearing surface (V6-8 engines have wider rod bearing due to 2 cyl sharing one crank journal). Polishing correctly is important. This has worked for SOMETIMES and other times it just did not last long. Depends on condition of crankshaft-if oil changes were done at correct intervals-the crank should be in good shape allowing this "inexpensive" fix.Overall-it's an inexpensive repair considering the cost to overhaul engine. If it does not pan out-then you'll be out of parts cost and your time. Wish you luck! (If it was me-I'd try this repair).

Posted on Apr 09, 2010

  • ByteRider Sep 10, 2010

    I replaced bearings on my 3.8v Grand Caravan, same problem with noise. Found one bearing was "smashed" but still intact. Replaced it with a 0.25 under bearing. Worked fine.. BUT... two of the other rods are making noise name [probably from the same issue]. So, will be gauging and replacing them this weekend.

    From what I understand, if the bearing is STILL there, chances are the crank does not need to be re-machined since steal-on-steal never occurs, which will warp the journals.

    The bearings cost about $5-$7 each, real cheap fix. But, keep in mind you need new oil too, so that could be another $30 or so, and you may need a new oil pan seal, that's another $20. In the end, I may have to replace the engine [same cost as an overhaul] and that'll cost $1500-$2000. Still, better than getting a new car and making $$$ payments a month for the next X many years.

    Btw, I got no help from Dodge's service center (I was 6K over warranty), I recommend people don't even go down that route, it is a BIG waste of time, especially if you do your own oil changes and don't have "receipts from jiffy lube or the like".

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A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

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TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

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A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

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5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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Does the oil light come on or the knock occur during the engine warm up after a cold start?
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You could also have excessive piston rod bearing, crankshaft bearing or cam shaft bearing wear that will cause oil pressure to drop too low to prevent the rod knock your hearing at 2500 rpm.
You said a knock and not a ticking noise,so I don't believe a lifter is the issue at 2500 rpm.
Start with the oil pressure check and go from there.
Let me know.
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