Remove the torx 30 screws that hold the plastic cover on the top of the engine,then you will find 10mm bolts holding coils to cyl head,remove bolts,lift coils out of spark plug holes,remove and replace spark plugs
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That's the inline six cylinder engine and I usually checked the plugs every 15K miles when I did my oil changes. I only used the OEM Volvo plugs as it ran best on that (low grade or premium, and I even tried Ethanol free gas). They lasted about 75K before I thought they looked a little worn.
The short answer is to replace them when they're worn.
Remove the black cover ( wording VOLVO and 24 Valves) on the upper cylinder block by unscrewing the 6 small screws. But extra careful and removing the individual ignition coil for each spark plug as the wire hareness may be bristle and will break away from the socket.
Remove spark plug access cover. (Black cover on top of engine.)
Once you have the black plastic cover off, number the coil packs with a magic marker 1 - 6 front to back so you can correctly replace them.
Coil packs are held in with a pair of 10mm bolts (A and B in the illustration. Later 960s have only one bolt at A).
Once you have the bolts out the pack should just pull out. A little twisting may help as there is an "O" ring seal at the top of the valve cover and a big boot at the spark plug.
Remove coils from spark plugs. Do NOT disconnect coil wires. (VERY IMPORTANT)
Inspect the condition of the wiring going to the coil pack. Look for crumbled insulation or charring. See 960 FAQ file for information on failing engine wiring harnesses.
If you have comprssed air blow out the plug cavity before you take the plug out. As an alternative use a vacuum cleaner and brush to clean any "stuff" out of the hole to avoid having it fall into the cylinder.
Remove spark plugs. Use a good quality, rubber insulated spark plug socket. Once they are unscrewed, you have to haul them up out of the hole.
Check and adjust spark plug gap to: 0.030" (.75 mm)
Install clean, "un-oiled", spark plugs and torque to: 18 ft. lbs .
Refit ignition coils.
Reinstall spark plug access cover.
narrow-gaprisk: spark might be too weak/small to ignite fuel;
narrow-gapbenefit: plug always fires on each cycle;
wide-gaprisk: plug might not fire, or miss at high speeds;
wide-gapbenefit: spark is strong for a clean burn.
1. Use the right tools. Plain socket wrenches can break spark plugs, or cause you to drop them.
2. Be careful handling the spark plug wires, they are fragile and can be damaged by pulling too hard or bending too far. Always twist gently and pull wires firmly by the boot ends, not by the cable, and make sure they are routed and held away from drive belts and hot manifolds. It's a good idea to clean the ends with a little solvent or fuel system cleaner on a rag before reconnecting them.
3. Make sure the new spark plugs match the old in design. If they do not seem the same, take an old plug to the store, and recheck the part listing with a professional.
4. Thread the new plugs in carefully by hand, being careful not to damage or dirty the tips when inserting them, then tighten them gently. Not much force is required to seal spark plugs. Just firmly tight is good.
5. Be sure to reconnect each plug wire to the same plug location it came from. The engine will not run right otherwise.
Disconnect the battery and wires going to the
starter. If air charge tube is in the way you can remove it. I am not
looking at a S-70 turbo right now but sure that I have never had to
remove intake to R&R a starter. There might be a bracket on the
passenger side of starter with a 12mm bolt into the front of the engine
and two 10mm nuts onto the starter. Remove two 13mm stud bolts that
hold starter in place and slide out. New starter goes in reverse order.