Question about 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier

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1996 chev cavalier brakes

Brakes were working changed calipers shoes and lines tried to bleed brakes and no fluid comes out ant suggestions?

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Did u replace all the brake lines, front and back brakes replaced? Make sure u did the following:
1. make sure master cylinder is topped off (full)
2. go to the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, Have someone pump the brake pedal 3 times, each time about half way down w/ pedal, on 3rd pump, they should depress the pedal half way and hold it there while u open the bleeder. When air or fluid comes out and it begins to slow, gently snug the bleeder valve shut before the pedal is released. Continue to do this until only clear, clean fluid is flowing. Keep checking the master cyl. level, if u let it go down too much u will **** air into the line and have to start all over. Go to the next bleeder that is farthest away, etc. til u do the closest bleeder. Car should be running doing this, and you MUST use safety stands so u don't have the car falling on u while u work under it. Also make sure all your new brake line connections are tight, or it will allow air into the lines. Let me know how this works for u. good luck countrycurt0

Posted on Oct 01, 2008

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Bakes aren't working after replacing cv axle


If you removed the brake caliper from the fluid line you will need to bleed the air out of the brake fluid lines.

Apr 27, 2014 | 1990 Chrysler New Yorker

1 Answer

Brake


There are several problems. Your caliper could be stuck and that is a problem. You probably have a rubber brake hose that is clogged up internally and restricting the flow of fluid, a second problem.
The internal rubber hose can form flaps which close off the flow of fluid. You only have pressure in 1 direction so it is easier to have a stuck caliper because the fluid will trap in the caliper and refuse to return to the Master cylinder.
But this must really be blocked or the safety valve has shut off the diagonal lockout for the ABS. For safety when fluid pressure is lost, a valve shifts and tries to keep a front and a rear brake diagonally supplied with fluid.
What you need to try before giving up on the current project is bleed your brakes starting from the longest rear line and work your way forward with the last line being the shortest.
You may discover that you now have fluid bleeding from the problem caliper. If so, part of the problem was the safety valve killed the fluid flow. You still have a bad rubber line, and possibly a stuck caliper, but now you may have fluid flow.
If I were you, I would buy a rubber brake line and change it before bleeding the system. Then you can see if the caliper is working or not. Rubber lines are cheap compared to most parts.
By bleeding the lines as I recommend, you stand a chance of centering the safety valve and solving part of your problems. If a rear line diagonal to the problem front caliper is also dry, then the safety valve was tripped.
With the rubber brake line removed, you should be able to compress the problem caliper with ease; if not, it is stuck and should be replaced.
At this point, I should mention the ABS box. Pressure coming from the box can be measured as well as Master cylinder pressure going to the box. Hydraulic gauges would be necessary. It would be the final explanation to your problems should the easier solutions fail. Testing price versus component price should be considered.
You will restore fluid flow and be able to test your stuck caliper using what I gave you.

Jun 02, 2013 | 1998 Mercury Mystique

2 Answers

I have a 2004 Land cruiser and changed the right rear brake cyl and brake shoes . What is the proper procedure to bleed the rear brake system. Thank you for your help.


  1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
  2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
    2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
    3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
    4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.

  3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
  4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
  5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
  6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
  7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
  8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Aug 07, 2011 | 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser

2 Answers

I replaced front and back brakes on my 1996 1500 Chev Suburban. Bled the brakes starting at the farthest line. The pedal is soft and travels too far. Does not seem to stop very good. What is the...


it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.

Apr 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

2001 kia sportage soft brake pedel still doing a complete brake job same as before changing the calipers/pads/ shoes /master cylinder /brake cylinders rear/ bleeding comp. system ? ANY HELP .yet the low...


hi from the uk have had this problem on a customers car b4 who had replaced frot calipers and pads and pedal went to floor on inspection of caliper i found that the steel spring clip that fits into two holes in the front face of caliper and must also locate behind the caliper carrierbehind two lugs was fitted incorrectly it had been fitted behind the outer pad resulting in when brake pedal off ?the caliper being floating type as it is known because it is fixed by two screw pins/bolts and moves on these pins/bolts as pads wear ? what happens is the spring fitted wrongly ? actually pushes against the outer pad and as a result the caliper piston is pushed back into its cylinder slightly as it moves on the locating pins/bolts resulting in pedal going to floor on 1st application but if pumped ? some brake pedal force is felt but is lost again when pedal released ? so try this ? remove the steel clips from both front calipers that retain caliper to carriers then press brake/pump pedal ? if as suggested above works? your pedal should pump up and remain ok when you release and still be firm when re applied ? all above is what i found on ford ford but many other models use similar calipers and spring locating recheck how this spring should locate hope this helps ? good luck

Mar 19, 2010 | 2001 Kia Sportage

2 Answers

Cant remove wheel hub


here is procedure

Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Wheel Hub Bolt Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  1. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
  1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining Removal
  1. Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
  1. Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
  1. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.

    Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
  1. Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
  1. Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
  1. Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
  1. Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
  1. Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).



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Installation
  1. Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
  1. Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
  1. Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
  1. Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).

May 25, 2009 | 1996 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Replacing brakes


hiya bonnie if you intend to DIY the brakes ? front pads? or rear shoes ? the front pads are easy enough for you to change in fact the pads/and calipers are virtually the same as ford and peugeot they are sliding type calipers that are held in position by 2x bolts that screw into the pins from rear of caliper when bolts removed the caliper pulls off reassembly is reverse after you push piston back the pads fit into the caliper carrier then refit/secure the caliper and pump brake pedal to take up the pads to discs B4 you move car then!bleed each brake a couple of pumps till fluid is clean the fluid that comes out first will be dirty due to heat absorbsion resulting in spongy pedal you will find pedal is more positive/hard when you bleedbrakes as i suggested brake fluid does absorb heat and moisture over time that is why it is recommended you bleed fluid to clear old fluid in lines nearest the cylinders hope this helps ? if you req further help come back will be glad to help best wishes from rochdale

Oct 11, 2008 | 2007 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback

1 Answer

Unable to bleed front brakes


loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck

Jul 01, 2008 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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