An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: 1996 chev cavalier brakes
Did u replace all the brake lines, front and back brakes replaced? Make sure u did the following: 1. make sure master cylinder is topped off (full) 2. go to the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, Have someone pump the brake pedal 3 times, each time about half way down w/ pedal, on 3rd pump, they should depress the pedal half way and hold it there while u open the bleeder. When air or fluid comes out and it begins to slow, gently snug the bleeder valve shut before the pedal is released. Continue to do this until only clear, clean fluid is flowing. Keep checking the master cyl. level, if u let it go down too much u will **** air into the line and have to start all over. Go to the next bleeder that is farthest away, etc. til u do the closest bleeder. Car should be running doing this, and you MUST use safety stands so u don't have the car falling on u while u work under it. Also make sure all your new brake line connections are tight, or it will allow air into the lines. Let me know how this works for u. good luck countrycurt0
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There are several problems. Your caliper could be stuck and that is a problem. You probably have a rubber brake hose that is clogged up internally and restricting the flow of fluid, a second problem. The internal rubber hose can form flaps which close off the flow of fluid. You only have pressure in 1 direction so it is easier to have a stuck caliper because the fluid will trap in the caliper and refuse to return to the Master cylinder. But this must really be blocked or the safety valve has shut off the diagonal lockout for the ABS. For safety when fluid pressure is lost, a valve shifts and tries to keep a front and a rear brake diagonally supplied with fluid. What you need to try before giving up on the current project is bleed your brakes starting from the longest rear line and work your way forward with the last line being the shortest. You may discover that you now have fluid bleeding from the problem caliper. If so, part of the problem was the safety valve killed the fluid flow. You still have a bad rubber line, and possibly a stuck caliper, but now you may have fluid flow. If I were you, I would buy a rubber brake line and change it before bleeding the system. Then you can see if the caliper is working or not. Rubber lines are cheap compared to most parts. By bleeding the lines as I recommend, you stand a chance of centering the safety valve and solving part of your problems. If a rear line diagonal to the problem front caliper is also dry, then the safety valve was tripped. With the rubber brake line removed, you should be able to compress the problem caliper with ease; if not, it is stuck and should be replaced. At this point, I should mention the ABS box. Pressure coming from the box can be measured as well as Master cylinder pressure going to the box. Hydraulic gauges would be necessary. It would be the final explanation to your problems should the easier solutions fail. Testing price versus component price should be considered. You will restore fluid flow and be able to test your stuck caliper using what I gave you.
it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.
hi from the uk have had this problem on a customers car b4 who had replaced frot calipers and pads and pedal went to floor on inspection of caliper i found that the steel spring clip that fits into two holes in the front face of caliper and must also locate behind the caliper carrierbehind two lugs was fitted incorrectly it had been fitted behind the outer pad resulting in when brake pedal off ?the caliper being floating type as it is known because it is fixed by two screw pins/bolts and moves on these pins/bolts as pads wear ? what happens is the spring fitted wrongly ? actually pushes against the outer pad and as a result the caliper piston is pushed back into its cylinder slightly as it moves on the locating pins/bolts resulting in pedal going to floor on 1st application but if pumped ? some brake pedal force is felt but is lost again when pedal released ? so try this ? remove the steel clips from both front calipers that retain caliper to carriers then press brake/pump pedal ? if as suggested above works? your pedal should pump up and remain ok when you release and still be firm when re applied ? all above is what i found on ford ford but many other models use similar calipers and spring locating recheck how this spring should locate hope this helps ? good luck
Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front
1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Hub Bolt
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
hiya bonnie if you intend to DIY the brakes ? front pads? or rear shoes ? the front pads are easy enough for you to change in fact the pads/and calipers are virtually the same as ford and peugeot they are sliding type calipers that are held in position by 2x bolts that screw into the pins from rear of caliper when bolts removed the caliper pulls off reassembly is reverse after you push piston back the pads fit into the caliper carrier then refit/secure the caliper and pump brake pedal to take up the pads to discs B4 you move car then!bleed each brake a couple of pumps till fluid is clean the fluid that comes out first will be dirty due to heat absorbsion resulting in spongy pedal you will find pedal is more positive/hard when you bleedbrakes as i suggested brake fluid does absorb heat and moisture over time that is why it is recommended you bleed fluid to clear old fluid in lines nearest the cylinders hope this helps ? if you req further help come back will be glad to help best wishes from rochdale
loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck