a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First, remove the negative battery cable. Then remove the wires off of the alternator then the bolts that hold it on and then remove the alternator. The schematic for the serpentine belt should be on the fan shroud. If not, draw one before removing it. Don't rely on memory.
The different engine applications that the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable are equipped with utilize different types of alternators. The following is a list of vehicle applications. For 1986-90 vehicles:
The 3.0L and the 3.8L engines utilize a side terminal alternator.
The 2.5L and the 3.8L (with Police Package only) engines utilize an alternator with an integral rear mount regulator and an internal fan.
The 3.0L SHO engines utilize an alternator with an internal fan and regulator.For 1991-93 vehicles:
The 2.5L, 3.0L and 3.8L engines utilize an alternator with a rear mount regulator and an internal fan.
The 3.0L and 3.2L SHO engines utilize an alternator with an internal regulator and fan.For 1994-95 vehicles:
The 3.0L, 3.8L and 3.0L SHO engines utilize an alternator with a rear mount regulator and an internal fan.
The 3.2L SHO vehicles utilize an alternator with a internal regulator and fan.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Loosen the alternator pivot bolt, then remove the adjusting bolt. 3. Remove the alternator drive belt from the drive pulley. 4. Tag and disengage the wiring terminals from the back of the alternator. The stator and the field wiring are the push-on type of retainer. After depressing the lock tab, the connector should be pulled straight off of the terminal to prevent damage. 5. Remove the alternator pivot bolt, then remove the alternator from the engine. 6. Position the alternator on the engine. 7. Install the alternator pivot bolt and the adjusting bolt, but do NOT tighten the bolts until the drive belt it tensioned. 8. Engage the wiring terminals to the alternator, as tagged during removal. 9. Install the drive belt over the alternator drive pulley, then adjust the belt tension using Belt Tension Gauge 021-00019, or equivalent.
When adjusting belt tension, apply pressure on the front housing only.
10. Tighten the adjusting bolt to 30-45 ft. lbs. (41-61 Nm), then tighten the pivot bolt to 50-70 ft. lbs. (68-94 Nm). 11. Connect the negative battery cable.
Removing the rear-mounted alternator on early 1990s Civics and CRX can
be frustrating. After removing the upper adjusting bracket bolt and the
lower pivot bolt, the alternator can *almost* come out the top and
almost fits behind the intake manifold.
The only easy exit path is out the left wheel well. Side access
requires removing the wheel and unfastening three of the plastic
retainers holding the upper end of the splash guard. But even this
doesn't provide quite enough room. You need to tuck the alternator back
under the intake, unbolt the lower alternator bracket (two bolts, 14mm
socket) before the alternator can be removed.
Locate the alternator on the engine. The alternator will be placed somewhere on the engine so that the pulley on one end of the alternator can be attached to the main belt of the engine. The belt will turn the pulley of the alternator and create the electrical charge to recharge the battery as the engine runs.
Ensure that no other parts of the engine will prevent you removing the alternator. If there are other parts that you must remove, carefully remove them before attempting to remove the alternator. Make sure that you keep all the screws, nuts, bolts and other parts together for any other items that you remove, as you will need to use them to replace those items after changing your alternator.
Unscrew and remove the battery terminals. It is always wise to disconnect the battery when working on the electrical system of the vehicle. Make sure you place the terminals in such a way as to prevent them from touching the metal frame of the vehicle. If there is any doubt, wrap the terminals with a small amount of electrical tape.
Find the alternator mounting bolt or bolts. There is usually 1 bolt that attaches the alternator to the engine and is placed at a pivot point on the alternator, so that the alternator may be positioned against the fan belt to a greater or lesser of a degree as needed to generate the charging current for the recharge of the battery.
Loosen the mounting bolt at the bottom of the alternator and rotate the alternator back away from the fan belt. Continue loosening the bolt until it is free from the engine. Remove it and place it aside for use in remounting the new alternator.
Lift the alternator out of the engine cavity and place it on the engine so that you may disconnect the electrical connections for final removal. Locate the point at which the charging circuit attaches to the alternator.
Move the rubber covering shroud away from the terminal on the alternator and, using the small crescent wrench, remove the nut from the bolt and carefully wrap the terminal ends of the wire with a small amount of electrical tape. This will complete the removal of the alternator
Removing the alternator isn't the easiest job on this car!
long bolt that allows the alternator to pivot to adjust belt tension
ISN'T the bolt to be removed; remove the two bolts that hold the
mounting bracket to the engine block. One is at the end of the
alternator (away from the belt), the other is above the end of the
adjusting bolt, not far away from the first bolt. Slacken the tension off
the belt by loosening the adjusting bolt, then undo the two bolts holding the bracket to the engine
While you have the alternator off, check the bushings of
the tension adjusting bolt; if worn/sloppy they should be pressed out
and replaced; it'll extend the life of the alternator bearings.
1. Remove battery terminals and secure them away from the battery posts using nylon wire ties.
1a. Fine some comfortable eye glasses (clear or yellow) and keep them on. There are plenty of opportunities to get debris in your eyes during this procedure.
2. Spray "PB Blaster" (loosens bolts) on two bolts that secures alternator.
3. Jack-up vehicle on side to access alternator. Use a jackstand to support.
4. Using a 10mm open-ended wrench, loosen the bolt that swings the alternator. Screwing the bolt "in" or toward the engine will allow play to increase in the alternator belt. Loosen the 12mm bolt slightly next to the 10mm bolt (approximately 1.5" toward engine).
5. Continue to loosen 10mm bolt until there is enough slack in the belt to remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
6. Remove belt. It may be possible to remove belt without removing fan faring. Maybe not. If not, you will need to remove plastic fairing. If you must remove fair, go below fan fairing and disassemble connectors that hold together pieces of fan fairing. Carefully remove.
7. Install alternator fan from above.
8. Check that alternator belt is on all tracks (from below with a flashlight), and slowly tighten.
9. Secure 10mm and 12mm bolts. Recheck tightness.
10. Reassemble battery connection and run vehicle at idle for about 5 minutes. Check belt for proper tension.
11. CAREFULLY check tension of belt. Or disassemble battery connections and re-check belt tension.
12. Reassemble fan fairing (if not already assembled), re-connect battery terminals, and have a nice day. :-)
disconnect the + lead of the battery Remove the wires going to the alternator. Mark them with a piece of tape so you can put them back to the same terminal. there are probably two bolts that need to be removed. One will be fastened to a slotted strap. Removing this one will allow the alternator to pivot on the remaining bolt. This will be the one that allows the fan belt to be removed from the pulley on the alternator. Removing the 2nd will allow the alternator to be removed from the engine. Installation of the replacement is the reverse procedure. Aftere you install the 2nd bolt, put the fan belt back in the slot and pull the alternator so the slack is taken up in the belt, then tighten the bolt
You can remove the fan clutch to add additional space. 1.8 T or V6? On 1.8 T remove the turbo hose. You have 2 types of fan clutches. Usually a big nut on the fan which must be removed by blocking the pulley or holding it and turning the big nut as to tighten it (opposite threads.) Usually seized on a little heat is needed on the nut just being careful not to heat the clutch and damage it. Other model have an 8 mm allen in the back depending on the fan clutch. With this advanced you'll have more space to move the fan a little. If you have to remove the front it's really not as bad as you think. About 1/2 hr it'll be advanced. You don't have to take it all off just advance it without removing the rad hoses or a/c or radiator.
Hey Joejil... I'm having the exact same problem that you had. I'd love a little help letting me know how you resolved the problem! I cut the bolt today to remove the alternator. Now to put it back together!