Question about 2000 Chevrolet S-10

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Remove and Replace Cylinder Head

I picked up a 2000 S-10 with a 2.2 4 cyl. Someone already removed the cyl head, and now I am putting it back together. There are a couple of brackets i don't know where they go, and nothing was marked when it was taken apart. Where can I find diagrams or an exploded view of the top end of the engine?

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If you took pictures of the brackets in question I could assist you better. Also there is always chiltons manuals.

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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There are at least three possible reasons for no psi in cyl No 4.
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2. Blown head gasket (water mixed with sump oil shows milky on dipstick and steam or water coming out of exhaust tailpipe, radiator water disappears )
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1 Answer

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is it just one click noise per push of the pedal or is it a repetitive clicking noise that gets faster as the engine speeds up? if its from the engine, it could be a warped valve making contact with the cylinder head. not a HUGE problem but causes less MPG and less power. to fix that, (assuming you know which valve is warped) youll need a lot of time, a lot of patience, a valve spring compressor (looks like a C clamp,) different socket wrench tools, possibly some screwdrivers, and maybe a couple more misc things. procedure: youd drain the oil, take off the valve cover, detach exhaust manifold from cyl head, remove the cylinder head, use the spring compressor to tighten the valve spring down to remove the old valve, then install the new one, put the head back on, reattach exhaust manifold, put the valve cover back on (might as well replace head and valve cover gaskets while you have the chance) then fill the oil back up. also if you had to remove anything above the valve cover to get to it, reinstall those as well.

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Engine oil going to radiator is a cylinder head problem.
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1. Cylinder head gasket burnt
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Remove cyliner head and pressure test it for cracks. If cracked replace unless someone near you can repair effectively. If not then skim and you might as well do a complete cylinder head service ie valves, stem seals etc. Put back head with new gasket and torque correctly and be surprised with the results.

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Were to start when changing cylinder head gasket


put in time and remove valve cover, front engine cover, timing belt ,exhaust at manifold, intake manifold and remove head bolts, pull head clean all surfaces replace gasket after head ck for cracks follow specs on bolts and put back together in a shop in would take about 4 to 6 hrs to do .

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I have a honda civic ex i will like to know how to change the head gasket whether i have to remove the engine from the car


Dear Sir,
For replace head gasket you no need to remove engine you can replace gasket there only but you have to remove cylinder head and do head facing and then put it back with new gasket thanks.
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U already have a BUSTED head gasket and maybe a WARPED head. The solution would be removal of the head, replacing the gasket and shaving the cylinder head! But if u insist, try RE-TORQUEiNG/TiGHTENiNG the head bolts w/ additional ft/lbs until the desired compression to fix the LEAK. The other one is BUYiNG an additive coolalnt SEALER, have used this ones for emergency, but it will only last for a couple of weeks, and will somehow block the RADiATOR FiNS! At the age of ur car, it needs a NEW GASKET, so that it last for more years! Hope that might help u out!

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I've been experiencing over heat problems with my 2003 honda crv. the temperature usually raises when i'm driving in an inclined or hills like roads. i have already over-hauled my radiator, i also had my...


Replacing a cylinder head gasket is a miss or a hit. In some cases, just replacing the gasket may work. But if the cylinder head is bend, dealer may ask to replace it, because "machined aluminum heads rarely works". In this case the cost may be more than $1000. It is a good idea to send the cylinder head for inspection, in a machine shop. They charge $150 for inspecting, checking, cleaning and if necessary machining the head.
If the timing belt will be replaced this is an extra cost. If someone will just replace the gasket, on a bend cylinder head, it is more likely to blow out again. This problem can be solved if the gasket be replaced properly, checking and taking care for the cylinder head too.
As the coolant warms up, it expands and for that reason you have two marks at coolant bottle. Down cold and up hot. It is normal for the coolant to overflow from coolant bottle, if it is filled to the upper mark with engine cold, way up the cold coolant mark. Let engine to cool down overnight and set the level at coolant bottle at the lover mark cold. If it will overflow again this is a bad sign. The pressure at combustion chamber varies from 75 in idle up to 150 or more in higher RPM. If the cylinder head gasket is blown, then gases are blown into the cooling system, increasing the pressure, the radiator cap pressure relief valve is open and coolant is discharged in the coolant bottle. In such cases it is common for the coolant bottle to boil. You can observe gases discharging in the bottle, mixed with coolant, from the cooling system. These are symptoms of a blown cylinder head gasket. Because you replaced it once, there might be a bad (bend, deformed) CYLINDER HEAD too.
To find it out you have to perform cylinder compression test on your car (PROFESSIONALLY).
1. Start with a normal ("static") compression test. To eliminate rings, valves, holes in pistons, that sort of things. A normal cylinder balance test is also helpful (so you know which, if any, cylinder is presenting a problem). Engine should be warm.
2. Put all spark plugs but one back in. Ground that plug wire to prevent module damage. Disconnect that injector on a port fuel system.
3. Put your compression tester into the empty hole. The test can be done without a Shrader valve, but most people recommended leaving the valve in the gauge and "burping" the gauge every 5-6 "puffs".
4. Start the engine and take a reading. Write it down
5. Now goose the throttle for a "snap acceleration" reading. Reading should rise. Write it down NOTE: Don't use the gas pedal for this snap acceleration. The idea is to manually open then close throttle as fast as possible while without speeding up the engine. This forces the engine to take a "gulp" of air.
6. Now write down your readings for at least the bad cylinder (if there is a single bad cylinder) and maybe 2-3 good ones. Make a chart like this: CYL STATIC COMPR IDLE -RUNNING COMPR - SNAP Cyl 1 150 75 125 Cyl 2 175 80 130 Cyl 3 160 75 120 Cyl 4 160 80 125
7. ANALYSIS: Running compression at idle should be 50-75 psi (about half cranking compression). Snap throttle compression should be about 80% of cranking compression.
Consult a professional with the readings. If the gasket is to bad, you may have very low compression at lease in one cylinder.
If you will get a positive confirmation for a bad cylinder head then you have two options:
REBUILD THE CYLINDER HEAD or REPLACE IT.

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