Question about Peugeot 405

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Brakes start to bind then lock on and the brake pedal becomes hard, tested the servo and ok

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  • smudger120 Sep 29, 2008

    thanks have checked the calipers all ok

    when started to seize up loosened pipe on the master cylinder and the brakes freed again

    i think that the master cylinder is corroded or scored

  • andyc1 Oct 06, 2008

    Hi, i have a similar problem on a Peugeot Expert 1.9 van. I've had all the calipers checked and all ok. I've also had the master cylinder changed and problem is still there. no idea what to do next.

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Have the calipers checked could be seizing, or the little pistons on the calipers are not sliding properly.

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

  • turbit123 Oct 01, 2008

    could be air in the lines or your booster

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1 Answer

2.7 s type brakes not working as they should they are ok when you start breaking but when you are down to about 10mph the pedal becomes very hard to push and the car trys to roll on ?


It is possible the problem is ABS related but could equally be a problem with the vacuum servo or brake booster or the "supply" of vacuum.

Certainly best practice would be to begin by ensuring the brakes at each wheel are in good order.

Test the brake servo by pressing the brake pedal vigorously several times while stationary with the engine off. The pedal should then feel higher than usual and rock-hard.
Apply the footbrake with a moderate force and start the engine without using the accelerator pedal, if possible. The brake pedal should be felt to pull itself down under your foot immediately the engine starts and stop pulling down in just two or three seconds, maybe just a second or two more if it is a diesel model.

Release the brake, allow the engine to idle for a few seconds longer and switch off. Listen carefully in the resulting silence for the sound of air leaking. This might have to be repeated several times in order to listen under the dash and in the engine compartment around the brake booster and vacuum lines. A short piece of garden hose used as a listening tube can be useful.

Once a servo has been charged with vacuum, in the absence of leaks, it should remain charged for a long time if the brake is not used - certainly hours but often months or even years is not unusual. Aplly a moderate pressure to the brake pedal and a shhhhh... sound should be heard that lasts about a second and then stops. Increase the pedal pressure and another shhhh sound and stop.

If all tests ok you can be reasonably confident the brake booster and vacuum lines are in order though it is still possible the vacuum supply is insufficient for sustained braking. A road test on a clear and safe downhill route will determine if this is so. Make a rapid series of brief brake applications at a constant speed of around 30mph and the braking effort and the feel of the pedal should remain consistent and if it does not it indicates restricted supply pipes or hoses, poor engine tune, incorrect idle speed (petrol models) or a worn or inefficient vacuum pump if it is a diesel.

Jul 23, 2016 | 2006 Jaguar S-Type 2.7

1 Answer

Break pedal goes hard sometimes and won't start


It sounds as if you may have a leak on the servo, this will make the brakes go hard as the air leaks out. This can also make it hard to start as the mixture is affected by the extra air getting in. Without servo assistance on brakes the pedal will be hard. To test start the engine if you can with your foot on the brake, if it starts and the pedal does not go down, the servo is not working. Obviously you need the engine running for this, but you can also check the airline going to the servo for holes, normally this goes from the inlet manifold to the servo. This image shows the servo with the hose leading out, you can follow it to the manifold, make sure the engine is not hot before touching anything. typical brake servo connection on car engine Google Search

Apr 16, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When driving I press on the brakes and they push back up and it's hard to stop what could be wrong I checked the brake fluid and the lid was open a little


Try a brake servo test by pumping the brake pedal until hard and keeping pressure on the pedal and start the engine and if the servo is working the pedal should move down slightly if not servo is faulty
If you have ABS the pump could be faulty and that needs a trained engineer to test and repair if possible

Sep 11, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2007 gmc canyon sputters like it is going to cut off when applying brakes sometimes hard to start. just changed plugs and air filter . could it be brake booster or something else


if I say possible servo booster is faulty,surely you will feel it on the brake pedal ( stiff ),or the engine running would be erratic.the other alternative situation is the pipe( hose ) which is connected with inlet manifold and servo booster and inside has the check valve probably is faulty. Test : off engine,pump brake pedal several times till gets stiff. Keeping your foot on brake pedal start the engine and if your servo works fine then the pedal goes a bit down,if not will not move at all. If the engine is running erraticly then with engine off, remove the pipe connecting manifold and servo block the pipe you remove from servo side,block it and start the engine,If engine run fine,then you must confirm whether is the servo or the check valve hose. For the check valve hose how to check,just put in your mouth the servo side pipe and blow into,if the air goes in the engine means that the check valve is broken and you must renew the pipe with check valve,if on blowing into will not allow air to get through,means is ok and the servo is the fault. Good luck.

Jan 03, 2013 | 2007 GMC Canyon Crew

1 Answer

My brake pedal gets real hard while driving and brakes start to drag


they could be binding on also get the breakes checked see how much frivtion material is left on them incase the calipers are at the maxamum they can go jack the car up when its been running and spin the rear wheels to see if there draging if so check hand break ajustment and rear shoes for same as front if all this is ok then move onto master cylinder if this is starting to go this can make the pedal feel hard also get the servo unit on the front of master cylinder checked as this is where the power comes from to make the car stop check hoses and pipes for leaks or cracked pipes hope this helps ivan

Oct 03, 2012 | 1998 Toyota RAV4

1 Answer

Brake pedal gets hard when braking, no normal braking


If there is a malfunction in the brake servo assist system, and your assistance is reduced, the brake pedal will become hard and you will need much more pressure on the brake pedal to stop the car.

It is possible that there is a vacuum leak in the brake servo assist system and you are only getting 50% or less assistance when you are applying the brakes.

You need to have the vehicle checked out without delay because if you lose brake assistance entirely it will be very difficult to stop the car.

Dec 22, 2010 | 2007 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

On my 2004 Jetta 1,8T the brakes are starting to get hard. Taking s little more pressure on the brake pedal to stop the car. What could be causing this??? Thanks


The most likely cause is loss of power assistance to the braking system which means you will need to apply increased brake pressure to compensate for the loss of assistance.

The problem will be with the brake servo assist. It is possible there is a leak in the brake servo assist system, which reduces the vacuum, so you are not getting sufficient mechanical assistance when applying the brakes.

It is unwise to be driving the car with this condition. If you lose all power assistance to the brakes, which could easily occur with this fault, the pedal will become very hard, you will need to apply very high pedal pressure and the vehicle will be very difficult to stop. You need to take the car to a VW dealer for service or to a competent brake specialist in your area to inspect the system and rectify the fault.

VW did a recall on some earlier year models for a leaking brake servo and I understand the problem was a faulty vacuum hose which would fail and leak. I am not aware of any recall for this item on later models like your 2004 vehicle.

All the best.

Dec 03, 2010 | 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

My 1992 cavalier shakes while idleing in gear with foot on break but stops while in motion or idleing in park?


hi from uk the symptoms you clearly describe sound like your brake servo /vacuum cylinder is at fault ie whilst brake pedal is off all is ok ? but when pedal pressed engine falters? this is a sign that the seal on the vac piston inside the servo unit is allowing air /atmospheric air to enter the servo as you brake and this assists braking however when inner pistonseal is leaking at some point inside the servo bore ie a scoared or rusty point ?the atmospheric air passes the piston/seal and so the vacuumpipe to servo is drawing this air into inlet manifold resulting in upsetting fuel mixture ie weak too much air ratio to fuel resulting inshaking engine you describe ? try this?? if you disconnect vac pipe from servo unit then seal off the pipe with thumb then ask assistant to start engine then it should run ok ? also it should be ok when b/pedal pressed remember there will be no vac assistance ?? if above test prove right ? then you will req a new servo unit only not complete master cylinder too ? you can diy this then bleed brakes after replacing servo ? hope this helps

Feb 27, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet Cavalier

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