Scraping noise in rear. Seems to be left side. The garage removed the rear drums & checked the shoes and drums, cleaned up and replaced. Drums and shoes okay. Ran the vehicle on the ramp, spinning the left rear wheel. No noise. Drove the vehicle on the road and the scraping noise comes and goes. I thought it might have been related to the parking brake because it now appears as the parking brake does not hold the vehicle. I left the parking brake off and parked the vehicle for two days. Day 3 I drove the vehicle for approx 35 kms before the scraping began again, intermittently. Very puzzling!! Please HELP!!!!
Re: Scraping noise in rear of 2000 Toyota Rav4 AWD
Just wanted to stop to offer some tips. I just put in new brakes on last night. I too had the same problem. The brakes were fine, but I replaced them anyway. The drum seem fine, and my emergency cable was a bit loose too. What you can try is hiting the ebrake while going in reverse or in drive. It may help. If not, adjust the ebrake cable will be needed, it not too hard to do. It should be by the rear tires towards the center.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The brake shoes need adjusting. Disengage the parking brake. Before fitting new shoes you should slack off the parking brake cable completely. Locate the adjuster(just follow the parking brake cable. Undo the locknut and slack off the cable. Remove the rear wheels and drums again. You will find a screw-in type adjuster between the shoes. Turn the adjuster to increase the distance between the shoes. The left and right wheel's adjusters turn in opposite directions to achieve the same result. Fit the drum to see if it slides over the pads easily. Do so until you start having diffyculty sliding the drum over the shoes. Fit the drum and rotate it. You should not hear any scraping or have any resistance on the drum when it is rotated. Refit the wheels. Test the parking brake. If it is still too slack adjust the cable under the car until you when you engage the parking brake it engages fully after 3-5 clicks.
hi this sounds like your brake pads have worn, or the brake shoes as well, if you have drum brakes on the back it will be shoes, if disk brakes will be pads+shoes (inside the disk) if it was the wheel bearing you would hear a loud humming noise not rubbing noise, is it a metallic rubbing noise or a rubber squeaking rubbing noise? just check condition of tyre on back if it is the squeaking rubber noise cost will depend on where you take it and if you do it yourself, possibly $40 to $50 at a garage/auto shop or possibly $20 to $30 if you do it yourself, this just depends ...hope this helps
Make sure the parking brake cables are away from the rear tires on the inside.And also if you check everything out in the rear brake department and everything checks out,look at the inner part of the drum and make sure your backing plates are bent into the drums.Best way to test this is to jack up rear tires and turn each one to pin point to where the sound is coming from..Your rear u-joints could also be making the noise to.But check the rear drums over once more to rule that stuff out and jacking up the rear and spinning both sides to narrow your search down...GOOD LUCK..
I had the same problem. The screw hole in the drum used to assist in removing it was stripped. I found that hitting the brake drum near the outside edge a big hammer (sledge) worked. It took about five good wacks.
hi there, you will need to slacken of the cable adjuster just next to the handbrake lever under its gaiter, jack up the vheicle and remove the rear wheels, remove the rear brake drums, clean and adjust the brake shoes also remove any dust from the drum, if the shoes are worn out they will need replacing, with the drums removed check everything is working freely by getting someone to operate the handbrake lever as you visually inspect the shoes you should see them moving backwards and forwards, if not then strip down and free off, i would advice doing one side at a time so you always have a point of referance to work from. check the wheel cylinder is free and not leaking, if so replace. adjust the brake shoes and refit the drums, once this is done readjust your hanbrake cable so it comes up 3-4 clicks, if this seems a little dawnting your local garage should be able to do you this job for a small fee, hope this helps
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove the rear wheels.
Remove the drums.
Remove the automatic adjuster spring and lever.
Remove the hold-down clips and pins.
Rotate the automatic adjuster starwheel enough so both shoes move out far enough to be free of the wheel cylinder boots.
Disconnect the parking brake cable from the actuating lever.
Remove the lower shoe to shoe spring.
With the shoes held together by the upper shoe to shoe spring, remove them from the backing plate.
Kelsey Hayes rear brake assembly (left side shown)Exploded view of the drum brake assembly—2004 model shown
GOODLUCK, shoes for this car ~ 15 bucks at auto zone.