I have a 2001 Audi A6 that I bought used a few month's ago. It now has 99,650 miles on it. The check engine light came on. It seems to be running fine, but the code that came out indicated a Fuel Mixture Trim problem on Bank 1 (or A). Any thoughts on what could be causing this. Is this a major or minor problem. Is it a do it yourself fix or do I need to hire a mechanic?
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Start with your starter and make sure it's not stuck out and getting too hot. Starters in a simple explanation come out to make contact with the fly wheel and start the car then retract when not being used.
OK. Since you have had so much trouble lets check the dealer for an updated software calibration for the PCM (power train control module). Once we're sure there is no "fix" here lets talk about "lean" engine conditions. Lean means one of two things are wrong with the air fuel mixture (ideally 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel). 1. Too much air -or- 2. Not enough fuel. If you access to a scan tool we need to look at fuel trims. With the engine warm look at this data on the scan tool. You have a "bank 1" and "bank 2" fuel trim data. Additionally, each bank has a long term and a short term value. With the Engine hot and at idle add the LT and ST trim value for bank1 and write it down...do the same for bank2. Repeat this step, for EACH bank with engine at 2500 RPM in park (hold at 2500 for at least 30 seconds so trims update). Now, you have the total trim values for each bank at idle and at 2500 RPM. What should the values be? Total trim +/- 5 is good, +/- 10 borderline any thing greater is code setting territory. If trim numbers are high at idle and in range at 2500 rpm you have a vacum leak behind the mass air flow sensor. Or a faulty MAF. Pay particular attention to the air inlet hose clamps behind (between MAF and engine) the MAF. Also use ford parts only.
I've come to love the 100% synthetic oil I put in my 1998 Audi A6 Quattro. My fuel range increased, by what % I'm not sure but it's defenitely better. All I've read about synthetics compared to conventionals solves the many questions I've had. I used to run only conventionals in my nCadilac Northstar engines till one day it blew up. I homestly believe the engine would haave never had been dameged if I wiuld have had 100% synthrtics in ig.
I would check to see if the catalyic converter is clogged. Drop the tail pipe at the manifold. Start and drive it for a block you will be able to tell real quick. It should run smooth and have good power. It will just be noisy. Or you could have coil problems.
change o2 sensors every 60,000 miles and use iridium plugs they will outlast engine.
check engine light will not come on until sensors are completely shot,this also goes for your mass air flow,had same issues with 99 beetle happened at 80,000 miles,changed all three items ended up with 35mpg after getting 24mpg before fix.parts are cheap on ebay.
I had similar problems with speedos in two 1990 Audi 100s, it was some time ago, but the contacts on the circuit boards on the back of the speedo deteriorate and do not give a good contact. I bought second hand speedos, only to find they had similar problems, eventually it was very easy to fix, I shaved matchsticks to chisel points and pushed them into the circuit boards to add pressure on the contacts and improve connection. After that repair drove the cars for a few years and the problem did not recur. It was a long time ago and I cannot remember exactly where the matchsticks were placed but look for soldered points near the edges of the boards. Regards, Michael