My son has a 1991 Celica that he likes to drive with the steering wheel in the lowest position. Suddenly today it decided not to move any more. Its not exactly locked in the highest position either so there is movement in the steering wheel while driving.
Can anyone help? We're just a bit stumped as to why it would be working perfectly one day and then jammed the next.
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Re: Steering wheel up and down adjuster is jammed
Thank you for your question.
Let me try to assist...The tilt mechanisms are very reliable, and we experience very few failures. However, I have had to release a couple in the last few years...More than likely, the mechanism may just be loose, or bound up, as you have stated that it is in the highest position. Here is what you need to do: Under the steering column, remove the screws holding the lower plastic on. Seperate the bottom half from the top half, and set it aside. Remove the top half of the colum cover. Now, examine the tilt mechanism for loose bolts, or anything that may not move with the adjuster lever.
Sometimes, moving the adjuster lever and janking down on the wheel releases the bind, also.
I hope that this helps with your issue.
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you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.
It's a pretty big job for a novice.
here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Exhaust Connector Holder Tool
Bench Mounted Holding Fixture
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
Position drain pan under steering gear.
Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
Partially raise vehicle.
Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
Remove drain pan.
Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
Remove flex tube holder.
Partially lower vehicle.
Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
Fill and purge system.
Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .
When they did the alignment it's possible that they used a tool that locks the steering wheel straight while it's on the alignment rack.If they put too much pressure on the wheel when they used the steering wheel seat lock tool it may have stressed you tilt lock mech causing it not to lock where you want it.Hope this helps
sounds like your steering lock is messed up. there is a bar that slides up and down on top of the inside of the column just in front of the steering wheel. it may be stuck.. try rocking the wheel back and forth while doing the same with the key
There is a metal rod that runs down the side of steering colmn and pushes on the dimmer switch. The dimmer switch is on the steering column to the left of the steering wheel. You will have to unbolt the column where it connects to the dash and rest it (the steering wheel) on the driver seat to get to the switch.. The switch is adjustable, just loosen the screws and slide it up or down to get proper adjustment.. Hope this helps.
I've noticed the same problem with my 2001 Ford Exployer Sport Trac. When my girlfriend drives my truck she raises the steering column, and when I'm driving, I lower the column. I noticed when I was driving recently the left front turn signal kept flashing quickly, thought it was the bulb, but changed and still happening. Today I took apart the steering column cover and noticed the wiring for the turn signals and hazards were loose. To fix this problem I pulled the wires out of column more as to not stress the connection. So far this has fixed the problem.
Being a locksmith for ten years, I have been aquainted with a number of occasions where the steering wheel gets locked up. Always start with the least expensive option. Question:
I'm sure this sounds silly but, have you tried turning the wheel hard right and hard left? You wouldn't believe how many times people have their tires turned to the right or left, which binds the ignition switch to the point that you can't turn the key to start the vehicle.
If the steering is in a rotational bind it can also bind the "U" joint in the steering column.
Check to make sure that you can actually operate the key cylinder and start the vehicle.
If you can operate the key cylinder of the ignition and start the vehicle, try rotating the steering wheel with the engine running, and see if that will unlock your "U"joint adjuster.
If you do all of the above and it's still unable to be adjusted, you will have to have a locksmith replace the universal joint rod in the steering column.
The main reason for these joints to fail is due to people driving with the column in an attitude of either up from the straight position, or down from the straight position.
The column is "designed" to operate from any position, BUT it causes the joint to fail due to prolonged use in an either up or down position while driving. The adjustable wheel is great for getting into and out of the vehicle, but it should always be driven in a totally straight position with NOupward or downward slant to the steering column.