I let my car sit for a couple of months without turning over, now have had problems starting. Replaced distributor cap and rotor, was blackened. Still cant start on own. When I put gas directly into engine will start but will not idle, Is this a fuel pump issue? Miya
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Re: 1992 VW Golf Gas
Has the original fuel gone stale ?Check that the fuel is ok If you can disconnect fuel line at engine end and put hose into tin to see if pump is operating properly when ignition is on or cranking, having help is essential as monitoring the fuel going into the container and doing the ignition at the same time can be awkward.Also make sure the fuel filter is clear if no fuel comes out during previous test
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Sounds like you replaced the distributor without setting #1 at TDC? The distributor cap should indicate which plug is the #1 plug wire. If there are no inspection plugs you can pop out to see the timing marks on the camshaft gears you will need to disable the starting system (fuel flow) remove #1 plug and turn it over until #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Then insert the distributor cap with the rotor on it, taking note of where the #1 plug tower is on the cap. Once the dist is installed place the cap on and make sure the end of the rotor is aligned with the #1 tower inside, if it is your good to go. If not take the dist out and turn it a bit left or right then put it in again until it lines up correctly (may take a few tries). Once aligned secure everything, replace spark plug and it should fire up.
You didn't mention distributor rotor. This part should be replaced with the dist. cap. If moisture in the ingnition circuit is the problem, try spraying entire ingnition system with WD40. This will waterproof wires cap coil and distributor.
first of all if you have moisture in your d-cap itll prob missfire or bk-fire when you try to start it. if this is the case then yest replace both the d-cap and rotor. you do both at the same time no mater what so you always start with clean electrodes and to ensure the propper spacing between the 2.
moisture in your cap causes oxidation. You should check to make sure the seal for you distributor between the distributor and the cap is still good.
Also a faulty ignition system such as a problematic coil or high resistance in your ignition wires can lead to ignition related problems. Doing a partial tune doesn't always work. Do the wires, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, PVC valve and depending on the mileage the ignition coil.
The rotor is somehow making direct contact with one or more distributor contacts.
Check the contacts inthe cap to see if you find any physical damage to one or more contacts caused by the rotor.
Could be rotor lead too long (file it down) or maybe the distributor shaft is bent or not seated. Remove cap and observe the distributor shaft as someone cranks the engine. Does it wobble? Can't tell? Place a stiff reference parallel to the shaft and turn engine again.
You can do either one of two things. Leave the distributor where it is and clamp it down. Or set it up to TDC, mark the dist cap #1 on the housing, lift the distributor and turn the rotor so when it sets back in, the trailing edge (right side) of the rotor is on the left side of your mark. That is how it is base timed. I hope this helps.
it is very possible that the cap and rotor are on wrong. if the spark coming from the cap isnt going to the right cylinder, you will have cranking but no start.
let me start by saying this is MY way of fixing the problem if you KNOW that the above is the issue. This is not the correct way, and i dont know if this could cause any damage so do at your own risk, all i know is it worked for me.
Put the rotor on a cylinder of your choice. try to crank the motor, if it doest crank, reset to the same cylinder and repeat the process untill the motor finally turns over.