It starts sometime other time it doesn't. I replaced the distributor, put a new coil on, it seems to only start when its cool outside. tyhe engine cranks but that is it and if I let it sit for couple of days then it will start.
It was suggested that I check the crankshaft sensor and the cameshaft sensor.
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When you changed the distributor did it go in the right way sometimes people put it in 180 degrees around as it will drop right in then also take a look at the rotors position when you are at the proper firing position for 1 and check it otherwise it seems like a walk down as in going backwards on all your steps to see if its right
Electrical issues are the most difficult to fix. If you can't duplicate the problem in the shop, you're usually out of luck. It could be a weak relay for things like the fuel pump, a weak electrical connection somewhere, problems with the circuit board inside the engine computer, and so on. It would help if you could narrow down the area of interest like fuel or spark. Carry a can of starting fluid and a spark plug tester and be ready to check things when it quits running or won't start. And check the computer for trouble codes even if the check engine light doesn't come on.
Water is essential to the to the life of an engine and running it without water will cause internal damage. the length of time is of no importance as you have hot moving parts with no cooling . How long was it running with the front end damage as the damage could have been done then. Have a compression test done
This sounds more like an ignition problem if you have the service manual that came with the truck it has diagnostics to check your coil, igniter, distributor, wires etc.. also you may want to look at your coil wire going to the distributor and if there is an in-line resistor replace the wire as the resistor is probably bad and when it heats up it interupts voltage to the distributor, wires, plugs etc.. when it cools down it will work for a while-- probably more often when the ambient air temperature is hot or above 90 degrees farenheit.
One of the plug wires may be arching or have a defective spark. It's odd, but I check mine by removing each plug wire one at a time. I'll use stick the end of a screw driver (insulated handle) in the plug wire and check the spark coming in from the coil/coil pack/distributor. Keep in mind, the engine is running and I only do this if there's no shop open or close by. Also the insulated handles are for that unwanted shock. Has he checked for sparks at night with the engine running. Look around and follow the plug wires and around coil/coil pack for any jumping sparks. If any are seen, there's your problem.
Sometimes you cannot just take out the distributor and replacing them. It must be put back in the excat position that it was before.
Start the engine, loosen the distributor bolts, and while its running, turn the distributor sideways. Note the position that the engine runs quietly, then tighten the distributor bolt. If you have a timing-gun, connect it to the battery, and aim it to the crank-pulley. The degree that the #1 pistion fires is marked in degree on the crank-pulley (0, 5-degree). Repeat this as necessary. Or better get the car to a 'friendly' auto repair shop.
i suppose that if u get the fuel lines checked and maybe get the fuel injectors serviced as well , also it can be the fuel filter that its blocked, because if its the camshaft and the crankshaft sensors, then it will not start at all , not even wen the engine is cold, hope that wil help u....