I would like to know How to inspect the condition of the torsion bar connecting links of my corolla. Because i heard rattles when i hit some holes on the road, i suspect the wear of the connecting links. Could you give me some info pls
Jack it up and wiggle tires, hold tire still and have helper move whell back in forth check steering first then see if rubber bushings are cracked on torsion bar if so there it is dry cracked rubber bushings are no good
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Its possible something in the suspension is showing signs of wear. Check the ball joints and sway bar connections for free play or looseness. Check any torsion arms and the a-arms or wishbone. Hope it helps.
Hi Yameekia, Chock the front wheels, loosen the wheels, jack up the rear end and place chassis stands under the vehicle and then remove wheels. You will see a torsion bar connecting the left and right suspensions. The bar is sometimes referred to as an anti roll bar or a stabilizer bar. It is attached to the body with saddle clamps with rubber bushings, replace both bushes. At either end you will see that the anti roll bar is attached to the suspension by flexible linkages. These are small rods with small ball joints at each end. When worn these same ball joints make a lot of noise, hammering out a drum roll with each bump in the road. Replace those and I believe your problems will be over. You mentioned replacing the rear shocks....what about the front? Did you know that the shocks are not there to give a comfortable ride but instead to hold the tyres in contact with the road surface. They are a safety requirement for road holding, so with that in mind, have a good look at those too! Regards John
The first thing to check on a rattling noise is if going over minor bumps in the road if that is when it makes noise is a sway bar link, they make a rattling noise. If you raise that wheel up you might also want to try and wobble the wheel to be sure it is not a tie rod end or ball joint. Typically I run into the sway bar links or the sway bar bushings making the noise. However ive even seen it be a rock sitting on the strut plate.
1995-2005 ModelsNOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the torsion bar unloader tool No. J-36202 or equivalent.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the transmission shield, if equipped.
Install a torsion bar unloader tool to relax the tension on the torsion bar adjusting arm screw; record the number of turns necessary to properly install the tool. Remove the adjusting screw and the unloader tool.
Unfasten the lower link mount nut from one side, then disengage the torsion bars.
NOTE: Note the direction of the forward end and side of the torsion bar being removed
Remove the lower link nut from the opposite side.
Remove the lower link mount, upper link mount nut, upper link mount and then unfasten the torsion bar from the frame.
Install the torsion bar and support.
Install the upper link mount and mount nut.
Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) on 1995-96 models and 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) on 1997 and later models.
Place a jack under the torsion bar to release tension, then install the lower link mount bushing and nut.
Tighten the nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) on 1995 models, 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) on 1996-98 models and 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1999 and later models.
Install the torsion bar unloader tool and tighten the tool against the adjusting arm the same number turns recorded earlier, then remove the tool. This loads the torsion bars.
Install the transmission shield, if removed.
Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Check and adjust the Z height as outlined in the wheel alignment portion of this section.
The Jimmy has no strut, they run on torsion bars. The torsion bar mount bushings may have gone bad or broke and needs to be replaced, you can pick up the torsion bar mount bushing at most large auto parts store like Auto Zone and i believe there around $40.00 each and the will have the step by step instructions to get the job done with common tools. The torsion bar mounts are about mid way down the jimmy just about where the drivers and passenger door is under the frame and they are adjustable.
To properly adjust your torsion bars, you need to find your "Z" height.First, park the truck on a level surface and measure the height betweenthe ground and the bottom of the knuckle (next to where the lower balljoint's nut is). This is measurement "A". Then, measure between levelground and the center of the rear most lower control arm bolt. This ismeasurement "B". "B" - "A" = "Z" and "Z" should be between 4.6 inchesand 5.2 inches. We just lifted a 2001 2 dr. blazer 6" with a super-liftkit. All angles and measurements stay in factory specifications andwhen you are done you set the torsion bars to factory specifications. Ihad to adjust my "Z" height last week to factory specifications andfollowed the directions and picture on page 21 and 22 here:http://www.superlift.com/instructions/3146.pdf .
It's probably the rear sway bar links. If you can jack your car up and check right behind both rear wheels you will be abale to see the sway bar which is connected to short links about 5in long with ball joints.
If either of them are broken or not connected anymore it can cause some pretty loud noises when you ride on rough roads or hit bumps. They run about $35 per link so it's not a very expensive repair.
Hello, the torsion bars on toyotas especially the 4 wheel drives can sag over time and I have seen them break also. Matter of fact I had a 4runner break one three times. They were all new. Just the type of roads we have in the good ole USA. Thank you
If your driving a 96 just look at tire wear if it is ok .. then you are probably doing ok .. That year is known for rough road rattles ... Just watch tire wear. tells you alot if your steering is tight also.