I swapped mine out and put in a 350 with a turbo 350. The rear end is not posi but if that's not a problem the drive shaft will work but you'll have to get a new trans mount. you can get one from Summit or jegs. Also the motor mounts will have to be moverd to the furthest front position. Best to put the mounts in then try the engine for fit before you bolt in the trans. You'll also have to rerun the fuel line to the other side. There are some other minor mods but you do them as you go along.
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The Chevy V6 is compatible with essentially every transmission, manual or automatic, as the Small Block V8.
Note that the 4.3 V6 is typically found with a 168 tooth flywheel (11" clutch disc) behind it instead of the more-common 153 tooth (10.5" clutch disc). This is done for clutch engagement, but moreso for the weight and resulting torque provided. Therefore, the V6 requires the "big clutch" bellhousing which gives the clearance needed for the larger flywheel. The V6 has the same crank flange as the V8's, so caution should be taken when swapping flywheels around from the V8 to the V6.
It can be done. It's the same block as a 350 so you should be able to use the same parts as a 350 swap. It's a tight fit for sure and requires some specialized parts. Look around on the internet for 350 swaps or check some of the off road mags. You shouldn't have any trouble finding complete swap kits or step by step instructions as well as what type of special pieces you will need. Hope this helps.
Depends on which 3.8 you have because there were two avaliable in that car .One was the buick 231 cubic in and the distributor was on the fron of the engine.The other was the chevy 229 cubic inch engine and the distibutor was in the back just like on the small block v8.If you have the buick motor be prepared to swap everything including wiring harness and transmission.If you have the chevy v6 it not so bad but you will really need a donor car(monte carlo,cutlas,lemans)with a 305 or 350 for the wiring harness ,radiator shroud ( shorter on the v8) ,a/c lines (longer on the v8).Years ago I had a lemans wagon with the chevy 3.8 that i put a Monte Carlo ss motor in and it looked like it came with it.bought a wrecked mc( hit in the rear) and swapped everything.Including coil springs and sway bars front and rear.And yes the SS 15 inch wheels too! It was a real cool sleeper.Miss that car.
I don't think you can get a rear end that high sped, the best I've ever seen is a 3.2 something . I had that with a 305 and my engine revved higher than 2200 with that. I think you would be better off with a 700R4 transmission from the early-mid 80's. It should bolt on and the overdrive works off an electric/vaccuum switch mounted on the firewall. Hope this helps.
a small block is the biggest that will fit, the trans will bolt up, but it is not heavy duty enought for the 5.7, u must use a 700R4 or a turbo Hydro 350. and by the way have seen this done by a friend, it was not cheap, u needs lots of specail parts, the 4.3 V6 is a better choice.
the 2000 s-10 came with optional engine the 4.3 LT V6 262 engine should bolt right in -- rear is fine but u will need all the electronics for engine and trans -the trans bolt up is different from the 4 to the 6 engine bell housing ,clutch ,slave etc the trans itself should be usable if u get the proper bell housing
A pinion seal leaks for one or boyh of these reasons. A worn pinion bearing or a driveshaft vibration, Sounds as though you have both. Do not confuse tire howl with gear howl, be sure.The rear end can run 3 to 500.00 if not more. Ck the gear oil in the rearend for metal content. That will tell you alot. The hard shifting is generally from a sticky spool in the trans valve body. Have the trans serviced w/new oil and filter. The new oil often cleans the moving parts of gum and varnish buildup.in the valve body. One more thing, the rear ends take a special oil and additive if it's a limited slip or posi lock. You will have a popping/binding noise when turning if the wrong lube is install. Have your driveshaft aligned and balanced at at driveshaft shop.or you will end up tearing up the tailshaft on the trans. Good Luck
The 2.8 is a 60 degree engine, and the 4.3 a 90 degree engine. Meaning the bank of the cylinders in relation to the center line of the engine. If you were asking about a 3.8 and 4.3 I'd say yes you could, as each of these is based on a 305, and 350 respectively. I don't believe the 2.8 and 4.3 have the same cylinder head bolt patterns to allow correct mounting to the block. Additionally you have to be sure about valve opening clearance requirements using the larger cylinder head because of the smaller bore of the 2.8. The 4.3 heads have larger valves, and may not clear the block surrounding the bore. The chamber of the 4.3 heads might extend onto the flat surface of the 2.8 block which is an engineering no-no due to hot spots/dieseling and other problems you would design into this monsterous mating.
I like the way you think though. Chevrolet has been doing this since they introduced the first small block back in the 50's.
You are right about the 2.8 being a dud. I had one, and it couldn't get out of its own way. You might be better finding a good low mileage 4.3, and grab the mounts along with the vehicle you got the engine from. Also be sure you get the computer, and harness. If that vehicle is injected and computer controlled, and yours is not, there would be a whole nother host of issues to deal with that you don't sound like you would wanting to encounter. In that case you might as well drop a small block in, because the issues would be similar.