I have to change the engine switch, because my keys doesn't turn in the switch. I have remove all the stuff around the switch, but it's not a bolt that keep the switch on the shaft. How I can put it off?
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Re: Engine switch removal
You need to either chisel a groove onto the end of the "bolt ends" that holds the switch on; or, use a Dremel moto-tool to score a groove; both to accept a flat blade screwdriver. After the groove is scored into the bolt, it will turn out rather easily. When the switch is installed, at the factory, the bolt heads "break off"; this is supposed to stop people from unbolting the switch if they wanted to steal it.
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The oil turning black and dirty means that besides doing its primary job (engine lubrication), your oil is doing very well at its second job, which is removing contaminants, exhaust by-products, and even microscopic pieces of metal (caused through normal engine wear and tear) from your engine, and bringing them around to be deposited in your oil filter and oil pan. In short- it is cleaning your engine.
It is possible that the previous owner of your Pajero did not change their oil often enough, and your fresh oil change removed allot of build-up.
Remember- this is all stuff that was in your engine, and is not anymore! Keep changing your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (4500 km) or so,, and over time you will see the used oil getting cleaner as it does the same for your engine!
System operation System arms 5 seconds after switching ignition OFF. Switch ignition ON. Ensure clock LED illuminates for 3-5 seconds. If LED flashes rapidly at regular intervals for approximately 1 minute, then flashes at irregular intervals: Key code not recognised. Remove key and try again. Programming When System malfunction: LED illuminates for 1 minute, then flashes at irregular intervals. Key(s) added or replaced. NOTE: Replacement keys MUST have blue mark. Keys with red mark are NOT compatible with this system. How NOTE: Programming method using vehicle keys can be deactivated using diagnostic equipment. Obtain 2 programmed keys (A and B). Insert key A into ignition switch. Turn ignition switch to position II. Wait 1 second. Switch ignition OFF. Remove key A. Insert key B into ignition switch within 5 seconds. Turn ignition switch to position II. Wait 1 second. Switch ignition OFF. Remove key B. Within 10 seconds: Insert key to be programmed into ignition switch. Turn ignition switch to position II. Wait 4 seconds. Switch ignition OFF. Wait 5 seconds. Start engine. If engine does not start and clock LED flashes: Switch ignition ON. Wait at least 20 seconds. Switch ignition OFF. Repeat programming procedure. Repeat above procedure to program remaining keys. Keys can also be programmed using diagnostic equipment
are you talking about the key cylinder or the ign switch. To remove the cylinder or the ign switch you need to remove the covers around the steering wheel. The switch is bolted in with to e8 torx. The cylinder is removed after you remove the covers buy putting the truck into drive with the engine off. Then turn the key to crank(will not crank because in drive) and there is a small hole above the cylinder. Using a small pick paper clip you push it in the hole. That releases the cylinder.
if your key won't work ,the steering wheel has to come off to replace key switch - special tools needed - if the problem is engine not starting or cranking over - the electric switch the key rod goes down to is on the bottom of the steering column above brake pedal
i have the same problem with my corolla 2002 I turn off the keys and put it out and the engine still running, I uplug the EFI fuse and the engine stop, I guess I need to replace the ignition.. or i'm wrong???
Your ignition is what supplys your spark pluggs with electricity in order to creat combustion in your engine. Most older cars have distributers, if you drive a focus with a zetec it will have a coil pack. I have a 2002 Focus SVT that I upgraded the ignition system to a full racing system for around $200. What you need to change is the coil pack, spark pluggs and spark plugg wires. You only have to remove about four bolts on the coil pack and it just pulls out.
It sounds like the lifters are still sticking. Change your oil/filter then after 500 miles change it again. Since motor oil has a mild detergents, a couple of changes should hopefully remove any buildup from around the lifters. Do not use "motor flush". Even though your engine is fairly new, it may remove too much buildup and flush it onto your crankshaft bearings. You may try some marvel mystery oil also and I've heard seafoam does a good job, if you can find it. Mine started ticking after using one of the super thick oil additives. I'm still trying to flush that stuff out.