Question about 2005 Chrysler Lhs
The engine exibited overheating problems intermittently. The probem was seemingly solved after realizing that the timing belt was "loose" by looking beneath the front cover. As the back side of the belt drives the water pump using contact, it seemed entirely logical to inspect the entire drive, lubricating and replacing anything suspicious. I took a tensioner from a salvage car replacing what I suspected to be the problem as everything else is fine including the belt. All worked perfect for three weeks then at idle, the timing belt jumped position and the engine knocked and ran terribly -we shut off immediately. Both tensioners seemed to be good taking an exceptional amount of pressure to compress. I can't imagine the belt being able to "jump" time as the wrap around the shafts are entirely sufficient so long as there remains pressure on the idler. On opening the front cover this last time, much slack of the belt lay between the camshaft pulleys with the lower end being tight. As I rotated the left bank cam, pulling up the slack in the belt, the tensioner took up the slack and the belt is again tight. Before replacing the belt and tensioner, is there anything else that I need to consider?
Hello ive read you questions and the other experts answers and they all have good points i just wanted to give you my point of view
this belt tensioner is to be locked down so it doesnt move once the initial adjustment is made. what i like to do is turn the crankshaft by hand to pull tight the belt on the non tensioner side and this is when i lock down the tensioner .
and yes when a car like this comes in we alway recomend water pump, tensioner , and any other idler pulleys that each vehicle may need also we take care of any oil leaks at the same time . oil or antifreeze getting on the belt will deminish the belt life.
and on your question on the cam brgs being loose , the cam is the length of the engine and it wont move enough to cause this kind of problem you would see a large oil leak first.
just a note
we do alot of customer cars that families take on vacation, and i dont want to be the one to ruin someones vacation by trying to save a buck. and when you are paying labor to have a belt replaced you expect it to reliable again.
let me know if i can help with anything else
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
Sounds like possibly a bearing or mount is loose somewhere. I'd take that cover off and pull the plug wires. Turn the motor over watching the belt rotate. See if anything starts moving irregularly. If it does, you've found the problem. The way they are set up; if any belt play happens it's immediately effected by the tension pulley. This results in the belt not skipping and jumping the pulleys.
Since it's jumping, there's a reason and it will lie somewhere in the belts drive range. Find out where, get the belt off and try moving all of the pulleys. See if there's a bearing out on one of them. Maybe just a simple bearing problem turning into a nightmare. I've seen it before and I'm sure I'll see it again. I've had a simple idler pulley bearing go out and end up destroying a belt completely. Even though it never locked up; still got my $65 belt.
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
The timing belt is supposed to last 105,000 miles (I have the same engine in my car and own a factory service manual), remember that a tensioner is set to the proper tension when a new belt is installed and that setting is locked, it does not tension the belt as it wears and stretches, therefore a belt will loosen with time, as tension setting is a one time deal, i.e. when the new belt is installed, don't mean to repeat but I want you to understand this about the function of the tensioer. There is no pre-determined mileage to replace a belt tensioner, the only time that becomes an issue is when the bearing in the pulley fails or the tensioner is otherwise damaged.
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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