Question about 2005 Chrysler Lhs

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1995 Chrysler 3.5 liter timing issue-what indicates the belt tensioner needs replacement?

The engine exibited overheating problems intermittently. The probem was seemingly solved after realizing that the timing belt was "loose" by looking beneath the front cover. As the back side of the belt drives the water pump using contact, it seemed entirely logical to inspect the entire drive, lubricating and replacing anything suspicious. I took a tensioner from a salvage car replacing what I suspected to be the problem as everything else is fine including the belt. All worked perfect for three weeks then at idle, the timing belt jumped position and the engine knocked and ran terribly -we shut off immediately. Both tensioners seemed to be good taking an exceptional amount of pressure to compress. I can't imagine the belt being able to "jump" time as the wrap around the shafts are entirely sufficient so long as there remains pressure on the idler. On opening the front cover this last time, much slack of the belt lay between the camshaft pulleys with the lower end being tight. As I rotated the left bank cam, pulling up the slack in the belt, the tensioner took up the slack and the belt is again tight. Before replacing the belt and tensioner, is there anything else that I need to consider?

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  • johnnyboy2 Sep 28, 2008

    The previous reply to my question references a serpentine belt which does not exist on my engine. The questions that I'm asking are:
    1. Have there been issues with the timing belt tensioner on the '95 3.5 Chrysler engines that would account for irregular slack in the belt.
    2.What is the frequency that the tensioner is recommended to be changed as the car was third hand when we got it as a gift. 3. What would be the symptoms of a tensioner in poor condition?

  • johnnyboy2 Sep 29, 2008

    1. If this belt were on a table aside of a new belt right out of the box it would be extremely difficult to see any difference. The water pump was replaced brand new. The pulleys were inspected and brushed clean. The tensioner was lubricated and assurred that it pivots freely -- the idler bearing was lubricated and spins like a roller skate wheel.
    2. The belt IS under tension at this time as it was at the time I put it in. This tensioner is seemingly doing its job as the belt remains under tension.
    3. I presume from your answer that this is not an uncommon event. When a customer comes into your shop do you recommend changing the tehsioner at the same time that the belt is replaced. Are both generally replaced at the same time although the factory references the belt only for replacement?
    4. Have you experienced this problem before finding that this is the actual rememdy.
    5. Is there a possibility that a cam shaft bearing could be at fault instead.

  • johnnyboy2 Sep 30, 2008

    I believe we've come to the end of possibilities in this scenario. I seriously hope that the results of this effort will remedy the problem for the duration of our ownership of this car. Thanks.

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Hello ive read you questions and the other experts answers and they all have good points i just wanted to give you my point of view
this belt tensioner is to be locked down so it doesnt move once the initial adjustment is made. what i like to do is turn the crankshaft by hand to pull tight the belt on the non tensioner side and this is when i lock down the tensioner .

and yes when a car like this comes in we alway recomend water pump, tensioner , and any other idler pulleys that each vehicle may need also we take care of any oil leaks at the same time . oil or antifreeze getting on the belt will deminish the belt life.
and on your question on the cam brgs being loose , the cam is the length of the engine and it wont move enough to cause this kind of problem you would see a large oil leak first.

just a note
we do alot of customer cars that families take on vacation, and i dont want to be the one to ruin someones vacation by trying to save a buck. and when you are paying labor to have a belt replaced you expect it to reliable again.
let me know if i can help with anything else
paul

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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  • 116 Answers

Sounds like possibly a bearing or mount is loose somewhere. I'd take that cover off and pull the plug wires. Turn the motor over watching the belt rotate. See if anything starts moving irregularly. If it does, you've found the problem. The way they are set up; if any belt play happens it's immediately effected by the tension pulley. This results in the belt not skipping and jumping the pulleys.

Since it's jumping, there's a reason and it will lie somewhere in the belts drive range. Find out where, get the belt off and try moving all of the pulleys. See if there's a bearing out on one of them. Maybe just a simple bearing problem turning into a nightmare. I've seen it before and I'm sure I'll see it again. I've had a simple idler pulley bearing go out and end up destroying a belt completely. Even though it never locked up; still got my $65 belt.

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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  • Chrysler Master
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The timing belt is supposed to last 105,000 miles (I have the same engine in my car and own a factory service manual), remember that a tensioner is set to the proper tension when a new belt is installed and that setting is locked, it does not tension the belt as it wears and stretches, therefore a belt will loosen with time, as tension setting is a one time deal, i.e. when the new belt is installed, don't mean to repeat but I want you to understand this about the function of the tensioer. There is no pre-determined mileage to replace a belt tensioner, the only time that becomes an issue is when the bearing in the pulley fails or the tensioner is otherwise damaged.

Posted on Sep 28, 2008

  • yadayada
    yadayada Sep 28, 2008

    One or two foot notes: inspect all the pulleys and idlers as well as the water pump, follow the proper tensioner adjustment procedure, look for loose or worn bearing and or wear to the pulleys and idlers, use a factory belt, they are the very highest quality.

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Replacing the belt and tensioner will definately help you.

Posted on Sep 28, 2008

  • tech gurus Sep 28, 2008

    Chances are the belt and tensioner is not the problem. Your water pump is. Check the bottom of the water pump and see if there is some anti-freeze comming from the weep hole. If there is then that is the problem. Anti-freeze will cause a serpentine belt to come off because of its lubricating properties



    OR

    If there are not leaking fluids dripping on the belt that would cause it to come off then, it sounds like a belt alignment problem.

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2 Answers

1995 Chrysler 3.5 liter timing issue-what indicates the belt tensioner needs replacement?


SINCE WHEN YOU HAVE REPLACE OR CHANGE THE BELT..?

Timing belts last a 100,000 miles easy. Even the owner's manuals will generally state the replacement interval for a timing belt or serpentine belt to be over 100k 5 years. It is just inspections up till then.

Sep 28, 2008 | 2005 Chrysler Lhs

2 Answers

I have no clue on how to replace water pump on a 1995 chrysler cirrus 2.5L. I have to do this myself I dont have the money for a garage.


This is found on the autozone.com website.

2.5L Engine
See Figures 3 through 7
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Place a large drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Drain and properly contain the engine coolant.

This procedure requires removing the engine timing belt and the auto tensioner. To help assure proper alignment at assembly, it may be helpful to set the engine at TDC on No. 1 compression stroke. This should align all timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and both camshaft sprockets.
  1. Remove the accessory drive belts and crankshaft damper.
  2. Remove the right engine mount. This requires safely supporting the engine with a floor jack and wood block so the mount can be removed.
  3. Remove the timing belt covers.
  4. Remove the timing belt and tensioner.



0900c152800896a7.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the water pump mounting bolts


0900c152800896a8.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Pull the water pump assembly off of the engine and inlet pipe


0900c152800896a9.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 5: Open the water pump housing and examine for cracks or damage


0900c152800896aa.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 6: Replace the water pump housing gasket using a scraper tool


0900c152800896ab.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 7: Always keep the water pump's mounting bolts lined up with their correct mounting holes

  1. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
  2. Separate the water pump from the water inlet pipe and remove the pump.

To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces. Inspect the pump for damage or cracks, signs of coolant leakage at the vent, and excessive looseness or rough turning bearings. Any problems require a new pump.
  2. Install a new O-ring on the water inlet pipe. Wet the O-ring with water to make installation easier. DO NOT use oil or grease on the O-ring.
  3. Install a new gasket on the water pump and fit the pump inlet opening over the water pipe. Press the assembly together to force the pipe into the water pump.
  4. Install the water pump-to-engine bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  5. Install the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. Set the timing belt tension.
  6. Install the timing belt covers. Install the right engine mount. Remove the floor jack and engine block from underneath the engine.
  7. Install the crankshaft damper.
  8. Install the accessory drive belts and set to the proper tension.
  9. Connect the negative battery cable.
  10. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.
  11. Start the engine and verify proper operation, with no leaks

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1 Answer

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I found this picture it is a bit large for the screen.

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2.0L Engines
See Figures 11, 12 and 13
The accessory drive belt for 2.0L engines has no provision for manual belt adjustment, since these engines use an automatic belt tensioner. Drive belt slack is taken up by the automatic tensioner.
Movement of the automatic tensioner assembly during engine operation is not a sign of a malfunctioning tensioner. This movement is the tensioner self-adjusting and is required to maintain constant belt tension.
The belt tensioner has a belt length indicator. If the indicator marks are not between the MIN and MAX marks, the belt must be replaced.
0900c1528008d836.jpgFig. 11: Drive belt routing-2.0L SOHC engine with A/C 0900c1528008d837.jpgFig. 12: Drive belt routing-2.0L SOHC engine without A/C 0900c1528008d838.jpgFig. 13: Drive belt routing-2.0L DOHC engine

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