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Re: 2005 Impala Leaking Coolant and no heat
Try the radiator cap, if that doesn't work check your interior heater controls.... as you've already pressure tested, it sounds unlikely to be the pump..... If it was defective it would have leaked with that pressure. The thermostat may also cause the problem, if it's stuck open....
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If you have changed the water pump AND the radiator AND the thermostat and still have the problem then the hoses should be checked to be sure they are not collapsing, also make sure that the coolant is 50/50 water and coolant and the thermostat is installed right.
I doubt its anything electric. Are you sure the radiator is full of coolant ? Do both radiator hoses get hot when the thermostat opens at 195 degrees ? Do both heater hoses get hot after running the engine for 5 min ?
1.check coolant level---must open bleed valve above thermostat when adding coolant.
2. Are fans radiator fans running when car ovrheats & is air comming off of radiator hot?
3. Check/Replace thermostat.
4. There is a plastic elbow that connects from the intakke manifold to the engine block on the passenger side of car that arrre notorioous for cracking / leaking....
5. The heater core on `05 Impala does not close when heater is turned off so does not benifit overheating by turning heater on.
CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL.MAKE SURE COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG HAS COOLANT IN FULL COLD MARK.IF COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG IS EMPTY RADIATOR GOT TO BE LOW ON COOLANT POUR COOLANT IN THE OVER FLOW UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STAY AT THE COLD FULL MARK.SEE IF RADIATOR DONT HAVE A RADIATOR CAP YOU HAVE TO POUR COOLANT IN THE OVER FLOW JUG COOLANT WILL FLOW DOWN IN RADIATOR UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP AT FULL COLD MARK.IF COOLANT LEVEL OKAY.YOUR THERMOSTAT NEED CHANGING ALSO RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.HAVE RADIATOR FLUSHED OUT.HAVE ENGINE BLOCK FLUSHED OUT.CHECK ENGINE OIL IF OIL LOOK LIKE MILK SHAKE ON OIL DIP STICK YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET THAT WILL CAUSE ENGINE OVER HEAT WHILE CAR IN MOTION.CHECK WATER PUMP MAKE SURE ITS WEEP HOLE NOT LEAKING ANTIFREEZE IF SO WATER PUMP NEED REPLACING.
REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF CAR OVER HEATING WHILE IN MOTION.MORE LIKELY ITS THE THERMOSTAT,LOW COOLANT IN RADIATOR OR COOLANT SYSTEM,BAD WATER PUMP,WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE IS LEAKING, WATER PUMP NEEDS REPLACING.CHECK ENGINE OIL,IF OIL LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.IF CAR IN PARK AND OVER HEATS WHILE IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE OR.BANK DRIVE THROUGH COOLANT FAN NOT TURNING ON, BECAUSE THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR FAULTY.CODE SCAN CAR FOR FAULTY COOLANT FAN RELAY OR FAULTY PCM. CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSE, AND HOT WIRE THE COOLANT FAN TO MAKE SURE ITS WORKING.IF COOLANT FAN DONT WORK WHEN HOT WIRED. COOLANT FAN NEEDS REPLACING. REPLACE BOTH RADIATOR HOSES, REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.BUY NEW COOLANT ADD 50/50 WATER AND COOLANT.IF ENGINE OIL HAS ANTIFREEZE IN IT.REPLACE ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER TO KEEP FROM LOCKING UP THE ENGINE.GET CAR FIX.DONT KEEP DRIVING IF IT KEEP OVER HEATING,ENGINE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.I HOPE INFORMATION I GAVE YOU WILL FIX PROBLEM.PROBLEM COULD BE LEAKING RADIATOR HOSES BUT CHANGE THERMOSTAT THATS FIRST THING I WOULD CHANGE BECAUSE IF IT CLOSED, ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT AND CRACK CYLINDER HEAD OR CRACK PISTON, COOLANT NEED TO CIRCULATE THROUGH THE ENGINE TO TAKE AWAY THE HEAT FROM ENGINE.
It's probably the waterpump, it's right where you describe. They are pretty cheap and easy to do so even if you have a shop do it, it should not cost that much. Have it repaired before the engine is damaged from over-heating.
it would not affect leaking all its doing is constantly circulating, if the core is leaking its just sprung a leak replace it. open you cap when hot bet theres pressure.no dont really dangerous?VERY HOT.
Did you install a new thermostat and make sure to bleed all the air out of the system when you replaced the radiator? If you didn't, or installed a Stant thermostat, replace it with a FACTORY OEM thermostat. Make sure the cooling system is bled by opening your radiator cap (WHILE THE CAR IS OFF AND COLD), starting the car and running the heater. Add coolant to the radiator as the engine heats up, until is at normal operating temperature AND starts spitting coolant back out.
Hope this helps, matt
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The thermostat is located in the thermostat housing, which is mounted to the coolant crossover tube. The bypass hose is connected to the thermostat water inlet on one end, and to the intake manifold water outlet on the other. The thermostat is not located in the intake manifold water outlet, where the upper radiator hose is connected.
Drain the radiator and recycle the engine coolant.
Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt and remove the bracket.
On 1993-98 3.0L engine models:
Remove the bolt from the A/C high pressure line bracket at the front of the engine.
Remove the two A/C accumulator/drier bracket bolts.
Position the accumulator/drier and A/C line out of the way.
Remove the bypass hose clamp and remove the hose from the water inlet.
Remove the four water inlet bolts and remove the inlet.
Remove the thermostat from the inlet.
Clean and dry the water inlet and thermostat housing mating surfaces.
Apply a continuous bead of RTV silicone sealant 0.08-0.12 inch (2.0-3.0mm) wide to the water inlet mating surface.
The water inlet must be installed within 5 minutes of applying the sealant.
Install the thermostat in the water inlet, with the jiggle valve at the topmost (12 o'clock) position.
Install the water inlet to the thermostat housing. Install the bolts and tighten them to 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-21 Nm).
Install the bypass hose to the water inlet, using a new clamp.
On 1993-98 3.0L engine models:
Install the accumulator/drier and tighten the bracket bolts to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Install the A/C high pressure line bracket and tighten the bolt to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Install the upper radiator hose bracket and tighten the bolt to 34-48 ft. lbs. (46-65 Nm).
Allow the sealant to dry for at least 30 minutes before adding coolant.
Fill the cooling system. Run the engine and check for leaks.