Question about 2000 Mercedes-Benz SLK

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Bleeding top hydrulic system after replacing locking servo

How do you bleed the system?

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Hi redbarro7,
Your vehicle may be fitted with a reverse bleeding system....have a look at the master cylinder and see if there's a bleeding nipple fitted there....If there is, you'll need to use a pressurized tool to bleed the system. You can make up one from an old master cylinder, if you're really into doing it your self....Pump out the air in the usual way......Leave an interval between each pump stroke, to allow the air to escape.

All the best


Posted on Sep 28, 2008


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Brakes fade when vehicle runs, new Master cyl. New brakes. Hard pedal until it syarts

you need to bleed the system
you have air somewhere in the hydrolic supply from the engine to the brake system or a slave servo also has bad O rings and needs replaced...

bleed it..

Mar 26, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How does the hydrulic system for 2007 ford fusion push back the clutch pedal

you did it wrong, the actual clutch pushes back with about 60 lbs force, and reduces by linkage 6 to 1 to see 10 lbs at foot (pedal spring nada,) ASE basics 101 , clutch hydra.
the slave and mc are in hyraluic lock ( dot3/4 fluid is not compressible, ) so you do have air there.
and bleed it right.
or on some cars, the slave has an adjust able rod and was set wrong. (read FSM)
or the pedal top shackel was never attached, so master is dead. (look at master for rear)

this system likes to fight you in bleeding air out, in the wrong direction.
bubble float up. you bleed down so..... yes, sux.
i use a vacuum tool to suck at bottom. and suck lots of fluid through even a quart if that is what it takes.

to prove the case?, push the pedal, see the rear mc, piston move in far, sure,
then with 2 guys, see both ends move, if the slave is dead,
you HAVE AIR. for sure.
all this is no different from brakes, not a word. master /slave.

Jan 08, 2015 | 2007 Ford Fusion 1.6

1 Answer

Rover Range Rover HSE 1996 braking system locking

either the master cylinder needs bleed or the slaves and servos need bleed
or both

i think if the pedal is hard then the master is jammed up and needs either replaced or a rebuild seal kit

if its soft its the slaves and the master is jammed on preasure

if you release the bleed points and fluid squirts out
its already compressed
so it must be one of the compression cylinders jamed on with preasure still in the system


Dec 11, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brakes are real spongy and we changed the master cylender, and bled them but still spongy, the peadle is nice and hard when not running but as soon as u start it peadle goes right to the floor? i dont...


it sounds like there is still some air in the brake system.

when the engine is not running the brake servo is not working either. when you start the engine, the servo works as well, putting far more pressure on the brakes.

bleed the system again, starting at the cylinder furthest from the master working to the nearest.
if this does not improve the brakes then try bleeding the system again, but with the engine running to activate the servo system. this should expel any remaining air.
BE CAREFUL doing this. always put safety first. try to use axle stands to lift the drive wheels if possible.

May 25, 2011 | 2005 Isuzu Vehicross

2 Answers

Got a 94' chevy 1500 having brake problems, and replaced the master cylinder and bled the lines. but the pedal is still not working right, the pedal when pushed with the truck running will just go to the...

With he engine running your pedal action is assisted greatly by the brake servo. The servo is a large diaphragm that is acted on by the suction delivered by a vacuum line from the the intake manifold. The fact that the pedal goes to the floor when the engine is running just shows how much assistance the engine suction provides to your foot pressure. It is obvious that you still have air in your system. I would suggest that you top up the master reservoir, start your engine and pump the brakes quickly until you feel some hard back pressure. This will ensure that the brake pistons have been fully extended. Starting with the most remote caliper (right rear) bleed off about half a pint of fluid. Ensure that no air is allowed to **** back in via the bleed nipple at any time. Refill the master reservoir. Next the left rear caliper, bleed off about a quarter of a pint. Refill reservoir. Bleed off a about quarter of pint from both front brakes. This should sort it out.

May 13, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

I have replace wheel cylinder on 97 Stratus, bleed the brake several times, but the brake pedal seems to get more spongy every time I bleed. Could the master cylinder possibly need replace? Is there a...

Itsw very unlikely their is a problem with the master cylinder. When you pump the brake's to bleed them it uses up the vacuum and the brakes will be spungy because the servo isnt working properly. After bleeding leave it running for a few minutes then try the pedal it should be ok. If their is a problem with the master cylinder then the pedal would go all the way to the bottom but not spungy. You may need to bleed the brake on the other side to get all the air out of the system.

Sep 15, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Change brake pads . howto do it

Hi I am vortash the easiest way to change pads is first to buy yourself a Haynes Manual for your vehicle type and model , this will explain the best and easiest way for you to change your breaks , they go into quite fine detail and explain everything with excellent graphics or pictures . I have had a manual for each of my vehicles and have completed many jobs otherwise thought to be the domain of the specialist mechanic . You will find this book invaluable for other jobs also and it will actually save you hundreds of Dollars / Pounds .. However if you can do it this way maybe I can explain how I do it on my car ..

first remove the road wheel make sure the car is safely supported .
Remove the Cap to the hydrulic filler resavoir for the brakes . place a kitchen tissue over the resavior and place an elastic band around it to prevent contamination from dirt and dust .
remove the pad retaining clips from top of calliper usuually two spring pins running through top of pads and remove the top calliper spring ( usually a black H shaped spring under the spring piins .
With a heafty screwdriver gently ease the brake pistons back ( this is why you take off the resavoir cap to ease preassure ) once pushed back ease out pads and replace .
not forgetting to replace the anti squeal shims .
I do this on all four wheels and then ease the foot pedal a couple of times to re set the pistons ..
Doing it this way also means I do not have to bleed the system .. replace cap and you should be fit to go .
I then take the vehicle to have a pre mot done they check the brakes on a rolling road and if they pass then I know I have done the job right and can have my family in the car wiith confidence .. hope this helps Regards Vortash

PS if you have the non return system on your car you will need to release each bleed nipple to allow the pistons to go back .. use a non return bleed pipe on the nipple into a glass jar so as to make sure there are no air bubbles and make sure you keep the resavoir topped up providing you do this correctly there is no need to bleed afterwards as long as the resavior has not dropped below half way and you have used a non return bleed pipe . .. vortash

Jul 04, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Accent

1 Answer

Hard clutch pedal

You cannot bleed a servo. it runs using the vacuum from either inlet manifold, or a seperate vac pump.Ensure pump is working if fitted (end of camshaft) the pipes to the servo are not leaking by removing the pipe from servo and start veh. If there is good suction then its servo failure. hard pedals can also be caused by pressure plate fatigue in the clutch itself.

Dec 30, 2008 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

2 Answers

Brake system

Hi, It sounds like the brakes need bleeding again, but just as your about to finish and all the air is out make sure the brake pedal is pulled up all the way before tightening the bleed screw.
You might need to bleed the whole system but if you still have the problem, then you will need to check for leaks and if none are found you will most likely need to replace the brake servo and will have to bleed the whole system again. This should solve your problem and if you have any problems or need me to answer any other questions, give me shout and will gladly assist you further.

May 19, 2008 | 1987 Land Rover Range Rover

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