Question about 1993 Toyota Celica

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3.0 timing marks

After replacing the water pukp on my 1993 Toyota pick-up,I aligned the cams to the marks on the plate behind the cam pullies, and the crank to the mark on the gear.... it's not right. Where are the right marks ? ( it has the 3.0 V-6

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The marks are correct and must be aligned ... loosen tensioner and try again...are you using old belt or new ?

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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If there is any difficulty locating the mark, usually removing the no1 spark plug will allow a rod to rest on the piston top while the crank is gently turned. When the rod indicates tdc the two marks should be approximately in line.

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I have attached to where you align the notch for the cam gear. The harmonic balancer has a notch on it, which you align to the "0" on the lower cover. The belt has alignment marks on them normally crank gear is the dotted line and the cam will be the solid line. Don't reuse an old timing belt of you removed it without marking it first. You should have aligned the gears to there timing spots prior to removing the belt Be very careful if you have to rotate the cam or crank the Pistons can touch the valves and cause damage. Hope this helps.
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1 Answer

Need timing marks for 1993 1.6 Toyota Corola camshafts


If its the 1.6litre 4afe. Turn the crankshaft to TDC, ie. Tiny slit on the crank pulley should be straight underneath the 0deg mark. The cams, intake cam is driven off the exhaust cam by means of two gears. Installation marks. They have 4 holes in front of the gears. Front being closest to timing belt. Upon installation one hole in each gear should face upwards and the other holes should face each other between the gears. On the exhaust cam pulley there is a hole drilled through it, ie. timing mark. It should face up. Directly inline with the grove in the first cam cap. If you have 1.6litre 4age engine. Between cam gears and cylinder head there should be a plate. groves in cam gears should face the groves in the the plate.

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1 Answer

I have found the crankshaft marks but I cannot find marks to align the to over head cams on my car, the dohc are run from 1 wheel. I am trying to re-align the timing belt as i think they have gone off.


if it's a dual overhead cam then each head has two cams and two pully's, a single overhead cam engine has one cam and one pulley on each head. if the belt has more than 60,000 miles on it you should replace it. you need to find out if the engine is an interference engine or not to determine the level of damage caused if the belt has jumped or slipped. your overhead cam timing marks are usually on the cam faces and the backing plate behind the cam or sometimes there's two marks on the cam that you align with the surface of the head behind them. the first thing you need is a diagram of the belt routing and mark positions because timing marks are very important especially on an interference engine. starting or cranking an interference engine with the timing marks misaligned can bend all your valves or even punch holes in your pistons! so proper alignment is crucial, good luck.

Jan 02, 2011 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

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I need to know the timing marks for the timing belt on a toyota highlander 2006 , v6 , 3.3 litre. the location of the cams, is it 3 oclock, 6 oclock, 12 oclock?


the timing marks for the cams are on the rear timing cover (behind the cam sprockets). They are very hard to see, especially the rear cam. Align the cam sprocket marks with rear timing cover. Because this engine is mounted at a 60 degree angle, you must use the marks. Rear cam should feel compression while front cam is free!!

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How to change a timing belt


In 98 to 2002 Kia Sportage models ( all equipped with the DOHC 16V 2.0 liter 4 cylinder motor ) these are the instructions for the timing belt replacement.
1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, dont worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom.
2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless.
3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be.
4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3.
5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on.
5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isnt turned over.
6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt.
7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog. There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry.
8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner.
9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6.
10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate.
11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6.
12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away.
I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need.

would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends.

Oct 01, 2010 | 2002 Kia Sportage

3 Answers

Timing marks and aligning timing belt


the marks for th cams are on the tin stuff behind the gears study it for a bit and nyoull see them the mark for the crank pully is on the case onthe bottom of the crank pully just of to one side

Feb 27, 2010 | 1995 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

When you change the water pump on a 90 corola 4-door sedan are there alignment marks to get the cams back "in-time" or is there a trick to it?


If you removed the timing belt to fit the new water pump then you have to reset the timing on camshafts/and bottom pully and ... the bottom pully has a mark on gear and casing and the KEYWAY should be dead straight up. and the camshafts have timing marks on the gears and casing behind the cover..
Have fun

Oct 07, 2009 | 1990 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Timing belt posision


1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, dont worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom. 2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless. 3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be. 4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3. 5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on. 5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isnt turned over. 6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt. 7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog. There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry. 8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner. 9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6. 10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate. 11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6. 12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away. I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need. would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends

Dec 02, 2008 | 2002 Kia Sportage

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