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Re: front brake rotors 1995 toyota 4runner
If you have 6 bolts going around the center (manual lock in/lock out) hub, you are going to be there a while. The center hub needs to come off, and ALL of the internal wheel bearings need to come out. The whole locking hub must be removed in order get the rotor off. This is NOT an easy job, and you need a special tool to loosen/tightem the wheel bearings. Figure 2 hrs per side if you have all of the proper tools & skill level.
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Did you also change the brake pads? Add fluid to top of reservoir?
Was the brake pedal low before you changed the calipers or is this something that developed after you worked on the car? If it was there before the caliper change then it has nada to do with the work you did.
You machined or replaced the rotors
You removed all rust on hub & rotor mounting surfaces
You removed all rust from caliper & pad sliding surfaces
& lubed with anti-seize
You flushed all four corners (every 2 years) brake fluid
You bought the best pads out there (raybestos,wagner,etc)
You have no vacuum leaks at the booster & pedal holds until
the engine is started?
When you expeirience a hard brke pedal the first thing to diagnose is a bad or inop power brake booster. First thing to check is the vacume check valve on the booster housing that is connected to a vacmue hose. Be sure you do have vacume from the hose first before replacing check valve.
Pretend like you're changing the rotors but don't take the rotors off. Instead, take the hydraulic line off the caliper using a line wrench. Have the new caliper ready and quickly hook the line up and tighten. Put the new caliper back on. The caliper comes with the piston collapsed, so very little bleeding is needed. Crack the bleeder open and see if it will gravity bleed. If nothing comes out, have someone push the pedal down while you loosen and then tighten the bleeder. Have them hold it down until you tighten to avoid drawing air into the caliper on the backstroke. Watch the reservoir carefully as the piston comes out--keep it full so you don't draw air into the lines. Repeat the pushing of the pedal and opening and closing the bleeder until no air comes out. Then continue pumping the pedal until the piston has closed the gap between the pads and rotor. Go to the other side and repeat. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Loosen the lug nuts and then jack up the jeep, ensure that you don't have the parking brake on. place a jack stand under it, this is the safest way to do it.
Remove the tire, and set it aside. There is two long bolts behind the caliper, on the top and bottom. Remove these bolts, and use a wire coat hanger and hand the caliper out of the way.
The main body of the caliper is still attached, this holds the brake pads to the rotor, so remove the remaining 2 bolts on that. moce it out of the way and set it to the side.
The rotor is the large flat ring that the brakes grab on to when you hit the brakes. There may or may not be small rings on the lug bolts, if there is not any rings on them, pull the rotor towards you and it should come off.