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The crank sensor is located behind the crank pulley on the 3.8 liter. The crank pulley must first be removed. A 15/16" socket, three very long 8 x 1.0 bolts (pretty sure that is the size, some large washers, and a crank pulley pulley will be required.
With the crank pulley removed mark the bracket where the old crank sensor is located so that the new sensor can be placed in exactly the same position. Failure to do this will result in the new sensor and/or the crank pulley being severely damaged.
Then it's as simple as removing the old sensors and installing the new one.
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
the pulley will be either pressed on or bolted on
if pressed on you will need a harmonic balancer puller to get it off and space to swing a hammer to put it back on
if bolted it will be torqued to up to 90ftlb so holding the crank to undo the nut is a problem so get a 1/2 " impact gun for the job
you will need space for the tools so look at what has to be removed first
next there is a crankshaft position sensor behind the pulley so be careful with wires in that area
some engines have the pulley bolted to a crank hub with 3 or 4 small bolts in which case the job gets simpler
the item to watch out for is the drive key in the crank shaft as it can fall out of place and fall inside the seal especially when refitting the balancer
Not a do-it-yourself job, unless you got some time and are pretty confident.
You'll have to dismount the engine from the motor mount on the passenger side. (17mm bolts and nuts)
You'll have to move the power steering lines out of your way.
Remove the crankshaft pulley. (21mm or 22mm Bolt, and some 10mm bolts)
Remove the timing covers (10mm bolts)
Place the engine on TDC for cylinder 1. There are timing marks on the crank you can use. (make sure the ones on the camshafts are on the timing marks as well
Remove the timing belt tensioner
Remove the timing belt
Remove the metal blade and crankshaft position sensor from next to the crankshaft (10mm bolts for the sensor, metal blade just slides over the crankshaft) Replace both of them.
Now, make sure you index the crank pulley correctly, make sure you get
the cams and the crank on the timing marks before you put the belt back
on. Make sure you rotate the engine by hand for 2 turns of the crank
shaft and ensure that the crank and the cams are still on the timing
Put it all back together.
That is a very quick overview of the highlights of the job.
The tools required are:
1/2-inch drive ratchet 2 - 1/2-inch drive 8-inch extensions 1/2-inch drive socket set
Please follow these steps to replace the serpentine belt on your 1999 Chrysler 300M:
1. Open the hood and prop it in place.
2. Locate the serpentine belt adjustable idler pulley on the front of the engine. This adjustable idler pulley will be closest to the top of the engine. Position a metric socket onto the ratchet and loosen the bolt in the center of the serpentine belt idler pulley.
3. Now please loosen the push bolt on the side of the idler pulley. It is a 15mm size and the push bolt on the side of the tensioner is 13mm. Pull off the old belt.
4. Loosen the tensioner pulley for the AC belt. The same steps need to be followed for this as well.
5. Next slip the AC belt on the back of the crank pulley and route it as per the diagram under the hood.
6. Now you need to tighten up the idler pully and the push bolt until the belt play is within factory specifications, then tighten the hub bolt in the center of the pulley as well.
7. The same thing needs to be done for the serpentine belt as well. Just ensure that you tighten up the bolts and have the specified play in the belt. Check the belt tension by pushing inward on the belt.
8. Crank the vehicle for about 15-20 seconds. Then turn it off and again check the tension in the belt. Adjust as necessary. You need to have about half an inch of play in the belt.
If this doesn't work for you or in case you need any further assistance, please comment and let me know, and I will be happy to assist you to further resolve your issue.
I will appreciate your feedback and positive rating for this solution. Thank you.
I don't know about the cam sensor, but the crankshaft position sensor is located just behind the crankshaft pulley, or possibly even right on the pulley. Should be just a small little thing with a couple small bolts holding it down. If you are changing it out, just be very careful to get it reinstalled in exactly the right position, they can be very finnicky.
Check your ignition fuse # 30, in the inside fuse box all the way on the right second from the bottom, check your coil and crank position sensor, these are responsible for spark, the crank sensor is bolted with 2 bolts next to the lower engine pulley, this is a magnetic pick up that triggers spark from the coil, if the crank sensor is good and you have no spark then the coil could be bad. Hope this helps, let me know.
1.Prepare yourself for a job that is to say the least "not fun". 2.In addition to your normal set of tools, you will need a tiny (mechanic's style ignition set) 5 mm wrench. A socket will not fit! 3.Once you've got a lot of stuff out of your and before you're-assemble everything, take a serious look at replacing the following: 2 rad hoses, 1 thermostat bypass hose, 1 thermostat, 3 belts, camshaft sensor, oil filter (as it is in the way & must be removed) 4.90% of this job will be done from the bottom, so put the front end up on axle stands or ramps (preferred as axle stands can get in the way for this job). 5.Disconnect negative battery terminal. 6.Remove upper rad hose. 7.Loosen the four 13 mm crank pulley bolts. 8.Remove all three belts. 9.Remove oil filter and you might as well drain the oil too. 10.Remove crank pulley. 11.Remove upper (1 center nut) and lower (2 side bolts) harmonic balancer shroud. 12.There should be no need to remove the harmonic balancer or crank bolt. 13.The sensor is located behind the harmonic balancer towards the bottom. Observe how the sensor is installed. It is possible to put it in backwards (don't ask). Remove the two 5mm bolts securing the sensor. You may have to put a socket on the crank bolt and turn it clockwise to allow the sensor to clear the vanes that the sensor cradles. Disconnect the two connectors up top. Be careful as old plastic = brittle plastic. 14.Spray some WD40 or equivalent on the electrical connectors for good measure. 15.Snake the sensor and wiring harness into place. 16.Loosely tighten the two 5mm bolts. Have a buddy slowly turn the crank bolt again to ensure the sensor clears the vanes. Think of how a caliper clears a rotor and must sit squarely upon it (thanks Wayne). OR, If you are made of money, in which case you would never be doing this job in the first place, buy Ford's feeler gauge designed specifically for this purpose. I would still double-check the clearances anyway! 17.Final tighten the two 5 mm bolts and check the sensor's clearance on last time. 18.Re-connect the two connectors up top. 19.Re-attach crank pulley. Rotate the pulley until all four holes line up. It is possible to force the pulley on wrong! 20.Put on three belts. 21.Tighten crank pulley bolts. 22.Attach upper rad hose. 23.Replace oil filter and add oil. 24.Attach negative batter terminal. 25.Start 'er up. The ECM will have to re-learn idle! .