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I just put new calipers on my jeep and anew master cyclinder when i pump the brakes and bleed the front calipers and release the pedal the fluid leeks back into the master cyclinder

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Did u bleed the master cylinder before u installed it? If not, you'll have to also bleed the rear brakes. starting w/ the bleeder the farthest away, to next greatest distance,etc til u get to the closest bleeder.
If u did bleed the master cyl. before installation, I'm wondering if u did the following:
have someone pump the brakes (3 times, don't mash the pedal to the floor, just gentle push no more than half way down 3 times, while holding pedal half way down 3rd pump, open bleeder, when fluid or air slows coming out, close bleeder, and repeat, until only clean fluid flows. And of course, don't let the fluid get too low in the master cyl, or you will **** in air and have to start all over. Let me know how you do. countrycurt0

Posted on Sep 28, 2008

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91' Mazda B2600i I have replaced pads, master cylinder and one front caliper that was bad. Have bleed brakes a lot went through 2 large bottles of brake fluid. Still no brakes. What do I do now?


It is possible you got a bad master cylinder--even new parts can be bad. Are you following correct bleeding procedure? Starting with right rear, then left rear, right front then left front? Using a helper to pump the pedal slowly then hold to the floor as you open bleed screw, watch for bubbles then close it before pedal is released? Top up fluid often and insure it never gets low enough to suck in air? I once got a "new" master that had no check valve installed.

Aug 15, 2016 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

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Need to know procedure for bleeding master cylinder and lines.


There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes


to bleed brakes is a relatively easy job for two people although it can be done by one without a pressure bleeder.NOTE keep brake fluid levels above minimum at all times during bleeding ( forgot to do it my self on more than one occasion and had to start over, trying to do too much at once) To do by your self you will need the correct ring spanner for bleed nipple, a clear tube that is a tight fit on bleed nipple ( long enough to reach down to floor) and a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it (glass jar will do it, is easier to see fluid level), Starting with the cylinder/caliper at rear furtherts from master cyl (longest brake line from tee piece) place spanner on bleeder then fit tube, placing other end of tube into container below level of fluid,. release master cyl cap/lid (no need to remove completely) undo bleeder half a turn, watch for fluid in clear tube. this should start to flow within 10 to 15 seconds (if bleeder isn't blocked with road grime clean if required), if fluid doesn't flow by it self (it should but) tighten bleeder then release again quarter of a turn, apply foot pressure to brake pedal, hold pressure on pedal till you feel pedal dropping towards the floor (half inch of pedal travel should be enough) ( fluid in container will stop air being drawn into brake lines when you release brake pedal) check clear tube for fluid/bubbles, open bleeder further quarter turn, if fluid has filled clear tube allow fluid to fill container a further eight of an inch, then close off bleeder (make sure no bubbles appear in tube whilst this is happening other wise drain more fluid till only brake fluid is visible in tube ) repeat process on opposite wheel cyl/caliper, then repeat process on front caliper furthest from master cyl , then the caliper closest to master cyl last. If two people are doing the bleeding the same clear tube and container are used,as is the order in which cyl/calipers are bled. One sits in the car and pumps the pedal until it has some resistance under foot (Whilst the pedal is held down) second person releases bleeder, first person keeps pressure on pedal whilst bleeder is released (pedal will travel towards the floor) when pedal has been depressed as far as it will travel second person closes bleeder before, the first person releases pedal and pumps the pedal again repeating the process until no air bubbles appear in clear tube at this cyl/caliper before moving to next cyl/caliper. good communication must be maintained to make this process hassle free

Jun 22, 2012 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

How do you bleed hydrolic clutch on a 97 Ford Pickup. I have tried pumping the pedal and it stays on the floor. I have replaced the Master Cyclinder and the Clutch cyclinder, plate everything is new


First of all, fill your brake fluid reservoir to the top. Not the clutch master (I will explain later) Now lift the vehicle in the air or crawl underneath it. This will take 2 people to bleed this properly. Measure the distance between the clutch slave and the nearest brake caliper. Cut a piece of hose this length to go between the caliper and the slave. Put the piece of hose on caliper and the slave, have the second person get inside the truck and pump the brakes. At the exact same time open both bleeders and when the pedal hits the floor close both bleeders (on the caliper and on the slave cylinder) do this until fluid starts escaping out of the clutch master reservoir. What you are doing is back bleeding the clutch from the lowest point to the highest point which is the direction air travels. Repeat the process until you get a pedal out of the clutch. This trick works every time for me, whether it is a bmw, ford or ferrari.
Good luck

Oct 12, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I replaced both front brake calipers in front on 95 concord and there is no brakes now like maybe air is in the system three calipers bleed having problems with front passengers bleeding ?


Try pumping the brakes and bleeding it at the master cyclinder. The air bubbles will eventually work its way up to the master cyclinder, BUT also make sure you keep the master cyclinder toped up on fluid.

Aug 16, 2011 | Chrysler Concorde Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 2004 Land cruiser and changed the right rear brake cyl and brake shoes . What is the proper procedure to bleed the rear brake system. Thank you for your help.


  1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
  2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
    2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
    3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
    4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.

  3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
  4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
  5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
  6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
  7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
  8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Aug 07, 2011 | 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser

2 Answers

I changed the brake pads but the brake pedal goes alway to the floor itried bleeding the driver side tire but every time i step on the pedal with the bolt all the way tightened it is still sucking in air....


Normally changing the brake pads doesn't require brake bleeding.

If the valve is tightened all the way clockwise and it is still drawing in air, you might want to get a new bleeder valve from the Help! section of the auto parts store or via some online parts house.

There are several ways to bleed auto brakes.

  • Most auto parts stores sell 1-person bleeder devices that have a check valve at the end of a hose that fits over the bleed valve. These work so-so in my experience.
  • Another option is to use a vacuum bleeder to **** air and fluid out of the brake lines at each corner. The one I tried worked so-so.
  • So far the best method I've found is 2-person. One person holds the brake pedal down while the other releases the bleed valve and closes it up again. Some folks suggest repeatedly pumping the pedal prior to bleeding others recommend against it. I had the best result without repeated pumping and by slowly depressing the brake pedal rather than quickly slamming it to the floor.

Lastly, the correct order in which to bleed brakes is starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear) and working your way closer (left rear, right front, left front). You have to bleed ALL four corners.

Also, if your vehicle has both drum and disc brakes, it most likely has a proportioning valve. You'll need to check the service manual or Haynes/Chilton manual for instructions on how to bleed. On my 86 Jeep I have to prevent a pin on the valve from moving, for example.

Mar 25, 2011 | Buick Century Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

I put 2 front brakes shoes on my 1995 Nissan Maxima,what is the correct way to bleed my brakes?Is their any order that i need to follow?


Did you open the bleeder screws at all. If not you may not need to bleed the brakes just pump the pedal to bring the caliper pistons out and your pedal should feel fine. If you just want to blled anyways open all your bleeder srews and as the fluid level in your brake master cylider goes down refill with new dot 3 brake fluid (do not alow the master cylider to drain completely). Close bleeders when you get clean fluid through. Start at passenger rear corner and have a buddy press the brake pedal down. open bleeder, close bleeder after squirt of fluid then have buddy release pedal. Do this a couple of time per corner. Go from pass rear to drivers rear then pass. front ending with driver front. You just flushed your brake fluid. Hope this helps.

Oct 05, 2010 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

3 Answers

Brake fluid is not going thru on new calipers. got new calipers from napa not dealer.


did u bleed the brakes ? there could be an air bubble causing blockage

Sep 29, 2010 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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