2000 tiburon battery drain

Below is a fuse box diagram for inside car and under hood. You said you have checked all fuses. If the fuse box diagram is correct it looks like you have fuses and relay under hood for interior lights and door locks.
https://fuse-box.info/mazda/mazda-protege-2000-2003-fuses
Just my thought, your amp drained battery, if you have no blown fuses could you have an open circuit. What have you done about the bad amp, could you have a problem with the repair made to amp. If you have a bad relay it could create a open circuit by contactor no functioning as it should.
I will tell you if the relay are the same I have swapped relay with another know good relay. Example My friends fuel pump was not working. His air conditioner was working, the relay were the same I swapped them and the fuel pump started working and air conditioner did not. We knew it was a bad relay.

Check fuses in under hood box. 230Ma is very small, probably used bu ECU. Ma is 1/000 of an amp

On the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee the # 15 fuse is the IOD circuit. (Ignition Off Drain) The # 12 fuse is the power windows. Both fuses are 50 amp.

This IOD fuse #15 powers the distribution box that contains the 50 amp fuse. Pull each fuse in the under hood.

Pull each fuse in the under dash. Check for on the passenger side floor is an additional fuse panel.

Before going to far suggest at night checking for any lights lit. The draw is about right for a small light bulb.

Typical draw for parked car is around 100 milliamps

Suggest that you disconnect power to the car for several minutes. Reconnect the battery. The object is to reset the body electronics module.

If the computers in the modules get a glitch they can cause a drain. By cycling the power, disconnecting battery, they will reset to factory settings. Reported it can take up to 20 minutes for the circuits to drain before you can reset!.


The Jeeps have several modules that can cause a drain
Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Electronic Control Modules

the following web site does a great job of explaining all that is going on. What appears to be simple to troubleshoot is not so easy. He comments about delay before sleep are important. Testing after overnight may result in a different drain rate. Make sure that your battery meets specifications. In 2000 the drain rate may be relatively high and the reserve capacity of your battery low.
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/parasitic-drain-ii-jeep-grand-cherokee
Hope this helps?

Relay clicking in the fuse box or relay box near it, find which relay and the problem associated with it. The gas thing is from the ECM being reset, it has to relearn running the motor.

your malibu should have DRL, or daytime running lights. there are several fuses and relays associated with them. there are a few under the hood in your fuse box. just look for the diagram under the fuse box cover and locate the DRL or daytime running lights. hopefully that will help

INTERMITTENT BATTERY DRAINS ARE HARD TO FIND. TURN OFF ALL SWITCHES IN THE VEHICLE. MAKE SURE THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT LITE IS GOING OUT. OPEN THE HOOD. CLOSE ALL THE DOORS. MAKE SURE ALL OF THE COURTESY LITES ARE GOING OFF. DISABLE ANY UNDER THE HOOD LIGHTS. REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. USE A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT, FASTEN ONE END TO A GOOD GROUND, { METAL PART OF THE MOTOR} . FASTEN THE OTHER END TO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY. IF THE TEST LIGHT LIGHTS UP THERE IS A BATTERY DRAIN. IF NO LIGHT , NO DRAIN. IF THE LIGHT IS ON LOOK IN THE FUSE/RELAY BOX NEAR THE BATTERY. PULLOUT THE FUSES, LARGE & SMALL ONE AT A TIME, IF THE LIGHT STAYS ON PUT THE FUSE BACK IN TRY THE NEXT FUSE. WHEN THE LIGHT GOES OUT, THAT IS THE CIRCUIT CAUSING THE DRAIN. IF IT NEVER GOES OUT, DISCONNECT THE ALTERNATOR. IF THAT MAKES THE LIGHT GO OUT, THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE ALTERNATOR. IF THE LIGHT IS NEVER ON, YOU MAY HAVE TO DO THIS ANOTHER DAY TO FIND THE DRAIN. ALSO HAVE THE BATTERY RECHECKED.

INTERMITTENT BATTERY DRAINS ARE HARD TO FIND. TURN OFF ALL SWITCHES IN THE VEHICLE. MAKE SURE THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT LITE IS GOING OUT. OPEN THE HOOD. CLOSE ALL THE DOORS. MAKE SURE ALL OF THE COURTESY LITES ARE GOING OFF. DISABLE ANY UNDER THE HOOD LIGHTS. REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. USE A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT, FASTEN ONE END TO A GOOD GROUND, { METAL PART OF THE MOTOR} . FASTEN THE OTHER END TO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY. IF THE TEST LIGHT LIGHTS UP THERE IS A BATTERY DRAIN. IF NO LIGHT , NO DRAIN. IF THE LIGHT IS ON LOOK IN THE FUSE/RELAY BOX NEAR THE BATTERY. PULLOUT THE FUSES, LARGE & SMALL ONE AT A TIME, IF THE LIGHT STAYS ON PUT THE FUSE BACK IN TRY THE NEXT FUSE. WHEN THE LIGHT GOES OUT, THAT IS THE CIRCUIT CAUSING THE DRAIN. IF IT NEVER GOES OUT, DISCONNECT THE ALTERNATOR. IF THAT MAKES THE LIGHT GO OUT, THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE ALTERNATOR. IF THE LIGHT IS NEVER ON, YOU MAY HAVE TO DO THIS ANOTHER DAY TO FIND THE DRAIN. ALSO HAVE THE BATTERY RECHECKED.

Disconnect the auxiliary power cable from the under-hood distribution center that runs to the anti-lock brake controller. Remove the ignition relay from this distribution center (this will isolate/eliminate/indicate the problem as the ignition switch). Unplug any GPS add-on device, and any radar detector, stereo amplifier add-on, I-pod, trailer brake controller add-on, anything that did not come on the truck from the factory. These can be frustrating.

The fuse is the main fuse to the vehicles power supply just the same as removing the battery cable . you have a drain in your electrical system , use a test light , remove the possitive cable from the battery and hook one end to the battery and the other to the cable remove fuses till the light goes off ( make sure all doors are closed and switches turned off) that is your drain source . do no remove the 50 amp fuse in this test .