Question about 2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
Both running lights stop working on my truck checked bulbs and fuses nothing is wrong with them. how do you check the wiring .the blake and turns both work . thanks for any help (i'm in the dark) lol kimmy
This happened on my '05 2500 Dodge diesel last winter.After spending a full day checking wiring,fuses,relays and the headlight switch I determined the problem was with the (FCU) the front control unit which is mounted with 4 screws to the outward side of the fuse box.When i asked the dealer if they had one in stock they said they usually kept 6 on the shelf,so I figured if they stock this many then they must be a common problem.This unit cost a bit over $300.00. When i installed it I still had no front or rear park/running lights so I started to remount the fuse box and look for another problem and BINGO I felt the relay click and the lights came on,now I'm thinking did this unit need a few seconds to reset or was this just a flukie fix.Well the lights worked fine for 3 months and the same problem happened again.This time I installed my old FCU just to see if the new one went bad but still no lights,but as I was moving the fuse box around again I felt/heard the relay click and the lights came on.
So I took the fuse box out of the truck and completly dismantled it (dealer says a new one costs $700.00).These boxes snap together and then there are 3 points where the plastic is melted (studs) and these need to be drilled out to separate the top and bottom halves,then the box is easy to take apart.There is a printed circuit board inside that the FCU plugs into with about 40 small connectors and there is where the problem was.One of the lead circuits on the board had corroded and lost connection.I just soldered in a piece of jumper wire and that cured my problem although this probably could be repaired properly by someone with circuit board experience I was happy with my mickey mouse repair for now.
This may sound complicated but the fuse box can be removed from the truck in 10 minutes(honestly) it took me longer to make a sketch of the harness plug in locations than it did to remove the fuse box.Once you have the box out it takes about 20 minutes to drill the (3) plastic studs and split the top and bottom sections (there are no springs on ball bearings or other surprises to fly out as you separate the 2 parts) then if you don't feel you have the skills to check the board and do the repairs you can have an electronics shop do an inspection.
A couple of things that puzzled me while trying to find this problem was that the dash lights still worked,the chime that rings to tell you you have left your lights on still chimed even with only the park lights on,and there was no power at both park light fuses.
When i found out the price of these fuse boxes I automatically thought I'd get one cheap at the local junk yard..big surprise,they said they can't find enough of them to keep up with the demand and also said they often get calls from people saying that their fuse box burned up,so appearently there is a problem with dodge truck fuse boxes!! When I questioned the service manager at my dodge dealer about these things going bad he agreed and said they have replaced many of them.
Hope this helps and I didn't scare you too bad.
Randy in Nova Scotia
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
Junk the Dodge, it has become nothing but a money pit since I have paid mine off. I paid monthly payments of $395 for truck payment, now I pay well over that to try to keep it on the road. Chrysler Corporation sucks. '02 Dodge Rams were supposed to be this great new truck. Sorry they are the same old pieces of **** they always were, just more expensive now than they were. There is an expresion Dodge should listen to..........You Can't Polish A Turd!
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
IF YOU ARE REFERRING TO YOUR PARKING LAMPS THEN I WOULD FIRST RECOMMEND CHECKING THE PARK LAMP RELAY LOCATED IN THE POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER. TRY SWAPPING IT WITH ONE OF THE OTHER RELAYS THAT ARE KNOWN GOOD. IF THAT DOESN'T SOLVE THE PROBLEM CHECK YOUR WIRING. IF YOU ARE HANDY WITH A MULTIMETER THAN YOU CAN USE IT TO CHECK CONTINUITY OF WIRING AND TO VERIFY PROPER OPERATION OF THE HEADLAMP SWITCH. TO CHECK THE WIRING LOCATE THE WIRING AT THE LAMPS AND AT THE POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER. THEY WILL BE COLOR CODED SO THEY WILL BE THE SAME AT BOTH LOCATIONS. DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY AND SET YOUR MULTIMETER TO THE OHMS SETTING. CONNECT ONE LEAD AT THE LAMP WIRING AND THE OTHER AT THE PDC. AN UNDAMAGED WIRE SHOULD READ AROUND .4 TO .5 OHMS. IF YOU GET THIS READING FOR ALL WIRES YOU CAN PRTTY MUCH RULE OUT THE WIRING.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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