Radiator Electric Fan Motor on a 2003 Buick Century won't come on when temp gets high
I've noticed when I idle in slow traffic the radiator temperature gauge climbs and I suspect the radiator fans are not operating at all. I checked the fluid and the thermostat seems to be working fine. It's when I have to idle at stop lights or heavy traffic when the temp climbs. When I get airflow going at higher speeds the temp goes back in a normal range. I suspect the fans are not working. Can you help me troubleshoot the fans?
Re: Radiator Electric Fan Motor on a 2003 Buick Century...
I have a 1997 Buick Century with the same problem. Both my fans work if the A/C is
on as they should. If your turn off the A/C the passanger side fan will not come on
and at an idle the coolant in the radiator will boil, you can hear it in the overflow tank.
If you are driving there is enough air flow thru the radiator that the coolant doesn't
boil and the car doesn't overheat. I have replace the water pump, the thermostat.
and the ETS or engine temperature sensor mounted just above the thermostat in
the thernostat housing, to no avail, I still have the same problem. The only other
thing is the coolant level sensor in the radiator, which I haven't replace yet due
to the fact you have to pull the radiator in order to replace it, which is a major
undertaking. I have a low coolant indicator on all the time on the dash so I have
a pretty good idea the coolanat level sensor is bad. The coolant level is not low
so that sensor is not working as it should. I hope this may help with your problem.
To test you fan raise the hood when it is cold and top off the radiator and fill the
overflow tank to the cold mark. Start the car and let it idle with the A/C off and
see if the drivers side fans comes on. It will have to get to operating temp
before the fan will come on. If it doesn't come on replace the radiator low coolant
sensor on the passanger side of the radiator. If that doesn't fix the problem
replace the thermostat and the Engine Temperature Sensor at the thermostat
housing with an A/C Delco Engine Temperature Sensor. Good Luck..
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Is the cooling fan operational? you should hear it cutting in, the tank you are talking about is an expansion tank, when the engine gets hot it allows for expansion of coolant, the caps on these tanks can fail they are designed to allow the release of pressure slowly, when they fail the coolant system can over pressure causing the car to run hotter than usual pushing coolant into the expansion tank, when this happens the water pump doesnt operate as designed and ends up slowing coolant flow. To check run the vehicle with the cap loosened and see if the issue continues.
When you observe your temperature guage climbing into the red while in trafiic, open your windows (depending on weather) and turn your heater on full blast until it goes into normal temperature again. once the traffic has cleared find a local garage and have you water level and cooling fan operation checked. Do not attempt to open the radiator or expansion tank when hot as this could result in serious injury.
If you are asking the normal position of the temperature gauge needle in normal operating mode it will be about half way in the gauge reading( between cold and hot). IT may vary about a needle width regardless of the load on the engine and if it climbs up in traffic then you have a problem with the fan operation
If you have a viscous fan hub then have it replaced as it is not drawing air through the radiator at idle or slow speed (crawling traffic). Check that are no air locks in the system as they will cause heating problems.
either the thermostat is getting ready to fail or the temp sensor isnt working properlythese engines also leak fluid from rear side of head after getting hot so check that so may have air in system because of the blown head gasket
YOU NEED BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL IN RADIATOR.ADD MORE DEXCOOL UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL IS CLOSE TO RADIATOR SPOUT.CRANK ENGINE LET IDLE UNTIL TOP RADIATOR HOSE GET HOT.WATCH TEMPERATURE GAUGE.IF TEMPERATURE GAUGE START RISING TO HOT ZONE.TURN OFF ENGINE.LET COOL DOWN.USE LARGE RAG SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP A LITTLE AT A TIME UNTIL ALL PRESSURE RELIEVED.REMOVE RADIATOR CAP.ADD MORE COOLANT.CRANK CAR AGAIN LET IDLE UNTIL TOP RADIATOR GET HOT.KEEP EYE ON TEMP.GAUGE ALSO.WHEN TEMP.GAUGE STOP CLIMBING.YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM BLED.WHEN DONE LET CAR SET A WHILE CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.ALSO FIRST THING IN THE MORNING CHECK COOLANT LEVEL AGAIN.AND BESURE ADD COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG TO THE COLD MARK.DONT OVER FILL THE COOLANT RESERVOIR JUG.WORK SAFELY DONT GET SCALDED.
At idling speed an engine does build up a lot of heat and the cooling fan will kick in. In slow moving traffic or traffic jams the temperature gauge can touch the red - particularly on hot days. The reason it cools down when you start moving is because of the air flow through the radiator.
Presumably there are no leaks from the cooling system otherwise you would have mentioned it. In normal circumstances the fan will not be running as you are driving at speed, as the air-flow through the radiator is sufficient to cool things. The fan only kicks in to get rid of excess heat - and this usually occurs at idling speed or after you have parked the car.
If the fan is running all the time as you drive, this points to either a fault in the fan switch, or the car is running too hot. presumably in normal driving the fan isn't running and the temperature gauge reads normal?
It is common - in stationary traffic many cars overheat (particularly big engined models) try to stall and 'cut out'. Restarting can be difficult until the engine cools down.
Is your car overheating in normal driving conditions or just at idle speed? Overheating in normal driving conditions can be caused by things like a failing water pump, blocked radiator, collapsed hose, faulty thermostat or, in the worst case scenario, cylinder head problems.
Overheating at idling speed is 'common'. Check your coolant level. If your car isn't using/losing coolant then there probably is no major problem. You can flush out the cooling system and refill with new coolant - and also check your radiator. Are the cooling fins crumbling with age? Or maybe they're partly clogged with insects and debris from the road? A blast with a hosepipe wil sort that out ..
The question is how much does your car overheat in normal driving? If it doesn't .. it appears as though you have nothing to worry about as such. Most cars have 2 speed fans... the 2nd faster stage kicks in at some point dependant on engine temperature. Perfectly normal.
When the Ac is put on the radiator fan would be working almost all the time. since you had been idling in the slow traffic there was no enough ventillation for the condenser to maybe shut off the AC and made it work hard. It is important to check if your radiator and cooling sections are alright. If in the first place there was less water inside, if so there would have been build up. Next if the radiator was blocked from the front it would have choked the cooling and resulted in the engine temperature building up. Please check for leaks in your radiator, flush the radiator and fill up with new coolant. check the pressure cap of the radiator for any fault replace.Finally check the engine performance , correct tuning/ timing , fuel supply.After you have identified any of this start the car and put onthe AC and put it on idling, check after 30 minutes for the radiator fan to cut off - the thermostat working fine- to finalise our fault. Hope this helps? Good day
Cooling Fan Malfunction. Your radiator fans are most likely not working. That's why the temperature is OK when you're driving full speed and the wind is cooling your radiator. You need to check and/or replace your cooling switch module and radiator fans (most likely it's the cooling module). If you were sitting idle or in stop-n-go traffic for an extended period of time, your car WOULD overheat because the fans aren't kicking in cooling your radiator - then you would see all of the cooling system water spill out of the coolant reservoir, before this would happen your temperature gauge would go to the red and the digital dislpay would flash a thermometer (indicating you're about to overheat in 2 mintues). I hope this helps someone out there - Yes, it happened to me in the middle of nowhere.