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Best to feed the wire through an existing opening in firewall where the wiring harness of the car or similar goes through. Push the new wire alongside existing wire harness, cable, etc. be cautious that new wire is clear of any operating mechanical parts or engine components generating heat.
Turn key to on position If the radio and blower work then run a jumper wire to the ign side of the starter solenoid(small purple wire). Hook it to a push button switch which has 12v on feed side. Push button to start. If no power is on with key on you will need to feed the fuse box with a 12v feed from the battery.
Check for power in and out of resistor. Normally located on firewall on passenger side underneath sill area, behind shock mount. Normally it will run on high only, if resistor gone, but I have had some that quit completely, so checking voltage on both sides of resistor, with fan on, should tell you. The power goes through the resistor then to motor. If not on firewall, follow wires from motor, back to connector at duct work, which should be the resistor, or resistor will be near there.
Your best bet with any radio install is to wire both the positive and negative leads directly to the battery. While it might be convenient to use an existing, unused +12V feed, the interference any stray RF power can cause to existing vehicle systems is very unpredictable.
Best bet is to trace across the front of the headliner and go down the passenger side "A" post. From there you should be able to make an easy hole for the power leads adjacent to the radio antenna wire. This is the wire that comes out of the firewall and loops directly into the passenger's side front fender.
Also, be cautious with your mounting and drilling, as some discos have an ultrasonic sensor for the alarm system in the center roof area.
To run any wire through the firewall, find a spot that is both reachable and unobstructed on both sides of the wall. I generally use a very short bit so after penetrating, it does not accidentally plunge into other wiring or components, or I use a collar over the bit (a small piece of tubing, leaving only 1/4" of bit exposed) I sometimes also "cheat" by poking a hole in the rubber boot where the steering column goes through. Whenever passing a wire through sheet metal you must install a grommet. (if none are available, you can make one by using a piece of rubber tubing or the cut off end of an old tire valve.) When tapping power from the battery, you will need to use a relay and switch attached to the "accessory on" side of the ignition switch, to prevent whatever you are installing from remaining on after the vehicle has been turned off. Use fuses in all new power sources as well to protect the vehicle and your new install from damage. In creating a new circuit, you have the opportunity to use shielded wire, which will prevent stray electrical "noise" in your set" not a bad idea to do that. good luck
Radio 12v blue/yellow + radio harness Radio Ground brown - radio harness Radio Ignition gray + radio harness Radio Illumination green + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on N/A Power Antenna N/A LF Speaker +/- pink - purple +,- radio harness or amplifier RF Speaker +/- lt. green - blue +,- radio harness or amplifier LR Speaker +/- black - yellow +,- radio harness or amplifier RR Speaker +/- red - white +,- radio harness or amplifier
Notes: If equipped, the amplifier is on the passenger side rear cabin wall.
im working on one of those right now ther are two inline fuses on the batt side, driver side they go to the firewall conector they should have a gray strip around them saying fusible link. test on conector side for 12v of both wires that will tell you if the link is bad sounds like the problem if no power is going inside to your fuse panle fusible links can look good if they havne melted through the insulation and still be bad the other thing is if you do have bad fusible links ther is a reason for it, most likley power to ground eather in chassis harnes or engine harnes being a coachman it could be anywhere
Ok theirs two easy ways you could fix this problem one way just in case you haven't done it yet is buying a car light tester and check every wire you cut and when you find a wire that has power make sure it keeps having power with the car on and off. Ok and the second way is if you couldn't do it the first way then you got to just make a constant 12V wire and that could be done many ways you could run a wire directly from the battery or find a fuse that has constant 12V and run a wire strait from there you could find a constant 12V fuse whit the light tester and if you do it this way just make sure you put a fuse holder on the wire your running well I hop this will help you.