Feels like fuel is cut off briefly, particularly when accelerating. Have replaced plugs and wires, #2 coil (per codes) MAF sensor, and fuel filter. Also cleaned injectors with fuel additive. Problem persists and is getting worse. Any ideas?
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If its a dead skip its probably the coil..But first inspect the plug and the wire,,and make sure nothings burnt..DONT remove the plug while the engine is hot,,you can remove the threads..You can go to advance and buy a 3 dollar spark tester and take a sparkplug wire ,,hook it to #2 on the coil pack,,Ground the spark plug tester,,and see if the tester fires..If it does it will be something else..#2 cylinder is on the hard side against the firewall,,if you check the plug and wire
check engine light will not go out or codes cleared till computer is cleared so if you have set off a code while trying to diagnose it will stay in memory with that in mind
PO171 & 174 are related to bank 2 lean o2 sensor reading high oxygen in exhaust at sensors PO120 has to do with throttle position sensor input out of range PO306 is a misfire in #6 cylinder
in my opinion any miss will cause o2 sensors to read lean because the cyl is in effect a air pump sensors only pick up o2 not the fuel does you engine run rough or hesitate/shaking on acceleration i would check coil wire and plug for #6 also the injector not working will cause miss also they look ok do compression test on cyl will read 150psi if you find cause of miss you will be able to diagnose lean
with the tps sensor check to see if the connector was disconnected at any time you were testing
basically you need to isolate misfire and fix then have the computer cleared of codes drive car and if engine light comes on then we will go through test procedures for new codes
i hope this helps you to get a few ideals on how to proceed good luck ley me know
Look at the wire and plug to cylinder 2, for cracks or damage, if nothing is found run a compression test need 100psi min, and then check the injector, you need to meshure resistance with a multimeter, and compare to other injectors something like 12 to 15 ohms would be good i think.
To update my earlier repair on the 2001 6 cyl Escape: When cold, and when the ignition was turned over but no accelerator pressure given, the rough idle finally returned the P0303 code again when the check engine light came on indicating that it wasn't caused by the plugs or the coil. FYI, I had replaced the intake manifold gaskets during the original repair and just prior to that I had replaced the fuel filter which was very dirty (I cut it open to see).
The repair manual referred to fuel injectors as a possible problem. I have run three tanks of fuel using different injector cleaning products and am very pleased with the results. Cold starts are much smoother and I am unable to coax out the P0303 code or any other code.
My opinion, change the fuel filter, use a fuel injector cleaner for a couple of tanks, change the plugs if the problem still exists. The coils were not the problem on my vehicle.
this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle