A couple of times a week the starter will crank, but the engine will not start until repeated trys (up to 30 trys) this has happened on the first start of a morning and today after driving several miles and attempting to restart
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Re: starting engine problems
It seems to be a PCM failure. (Power control module). I would suggest that you take it to a good mechanic. it is fairly easy to remove and reinstall. But if it is a different PCM you will have to do a re-learn on the PCM. that is not that easy. but if you find somebody to do it, it is worth it. Be sure and tell them you know that it is the PCM. I really hope this works for you. it is worth the try. Better than having all those problems.
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we dont have this engine here, USA.
but i have the WG jeep book,
starting page 12 , chapter 14
FUEL INJECTION PUMP BLEEDING
(1) If the fuel injection pump has been replaced,
air should be bled at the overflow valve before
attempting to start engine.
(a) Loosen the overflow valve (Fig. 18) at the
rear of the injection pump.
(b) Place a towel below the valve.
WARNING: WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE TO
BLEED AIR FROM THE INJECTION PUMP, THE
ENGINE MAY START. PLACE THE TRANSMISSION
IN NEUTRAL OR PARK AND SET PARKING BRAKE
BEFORE ENGAGING THE STARTER MOTOR.
CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for
more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow 2 minutes
between cranking intervals.
(2) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to
allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out
the fuel injector drain tubes. Continue this procedure
until the engine starts. Observe the previous WARNING
(3) Tighten overflow valve.
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINE BLEEDING
WARNING: THE INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES HIGH-
-PRESSURE FUEL OF APPROXIMATELY 45,000 KPA
(6,526 PSI) TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR
THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL
UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE
THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE
CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH
FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE
WARNING: DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL
SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE. DO NOT ALLOW FUEL
TO SPRAY ONTO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD WHEN
BLEEDING AIR FROM THE FUEL SYSTEM.
Bleed air from one injector at time.
(1) Loosen the high-pressure fuel line fitting at
the injector (Fig. 19).
(2) Crank the engine until all air has been bled
from the line. Do not operate the starter motor
for longer than 30 seconds. Wait 2 minutes
between cranking intervals.
(3) Start the engine and bleed one injector at a
time until the engine runs smoothly.
pump timing is on next page
or tank filter line priming before. above.
might be a fuel issue. try this. turn the key like you are going to start the car and you should hear the fuel pump. but don't turn it so far the engine starter turns. then turn it off. then repeat. do this 3 times and then try starting the car. what this does is builds up fuel pressure easier. if it works then you might have a fuel leak or a fuel filter might be clogged or the fuel pump is going.
2 problems starter is bad, (if it spins up fast and the crank shaft is stalled its a bad starter (battery charged 100% and good) problem 2 is called low idle and will cause stalling there are vast ways to stall any engine, (i will not list them) are 1: egr stuck open , stalls at all stop signs. 2: isc stuck closed, the former is harder to save the stall with right foot actions? the later is childs play, (you are now an ISC)
that starter can in fact fail in many away. Shorted (over current and causes solenoid to drop out) open, starter, its dead as a door nail. bad solenoid. causes free running of starter, it spins up real fast and the engine crankshaft is no moving, this is a bad solenoid or just a dirty shaft for pinion. solenoid main contacter, bad, intermittent starts. or DEAD. the contactor can sieze, and engine keeps cranking this is a horrible ugly mode of fail, the engine can infact destroy the starter (100HP kills 5ph starter by going over speed.) theres is a clutch in the starter that prevents this, but it to can fail or get dirty and jam. if you were to say exactly what the starter did,. step by step we can answer the why>?
i turn key, the starter spins ,but not engine or same and its too slow same and it only clicks or same and when i release the key the starter is still making noises... see?
you may have flooded the motor jusy wait half hour and retry if it doesnt start try holding to the floor and cranking untill it trys to run then by holdig it down it clear the flood only crank 15 to 20 seconds and dont take foot off pedal when you stop cranking just wait 30 to 45 seconds to crank agian and never let up until it runs. hope this helps Thunderboltz
The RX8 has always been a bit problematic at starting, at least until Mazda started fitted uprated starters (~2006). The standard, weak starter motor spins the engine quite slowly, causing problems getting compression to start the engine.
There's various things to try...
DON'T pump the gas whilst starting - foot OFF the accelarator (might be beneficial to depress the clutch just to reduce the loading on the starter motor). Check all the RX8 owners' forums - standard advice.
DO use a confident turn of the key - keep cranking until it catches (but not for more than 10 seconds - in which case leave for 10 seconds before trying again) - don't just crank for a second or two, then retry. That's as per owner's manual.
DO ensure that you leave the engine to warm up ALWAYS before shutting off - to avoid fuel being left in the rotor - that affects compression badly if left any period of time, resulting in very poor starting (risk of flooding).
If non of the above helps, get a hot-engine compression check to ensure that the engine isn't shot. If the engine is okay, then consider getting an uprated starter motor, or 3rd-party replacement. Many 2004/2005s have had their starters replaced (I considered mine, although I've had no problem over winter :)
Try replacing the wire from the positive battery cable to the small terminal it is attched to. It is the smaller gauge wire that is attched to the battery terminal. Be sure to use the right gauge, don't over or undersize it. I had this problem and it did'nt stop until I changed this. Without this wire in good condition, the starter will crank too slow or not crank at all, mimicking other problems (like bad battery, bad starter , etc.). Post if it works.
When you turn the key to start position that 2 or 3 times does starter click? or does it do nothing? If it clicks starter selanoid on starter is bad, If it don't click at all its ignition switch thats bad.