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well u didn't say what your working on , but I can say generally the rear wheel bearing is lubricated by the oil in the rear axle , if its making noise its usually done for and requires replacement , also need to find out why oil is not lubing it (it might be out of oil ) if this is the case then entire rear axle is in jeopardy of being damaged , there are oil seals that are out towards the brake drum/shoe the bearing is behind them , need to remove entire axle (not the rear !!) from vehicle to access them have plenty of room these axles are between 1.5 feet and 5 feet long each side and they don't bend !!! (you cant cut a hole thru garage to feed them out )
I supose you are talking about the rear axle? if so, unscrew the bolts of the rear axle's cover and let the oil flow out into a container. once it's empty, clean the cover and the surface on the axle where the cover goes on to, apply a seal onto the cover and put the cover back on and screw al of the bolts back into place and tighten them. you will find a rubber plug in the cover, take it out and fill the rear axle untill the liquid comes out of the plughole. Put the rubber plug in and you're done! Watch out if you got al limited slip differential, you will need to put an additive into the oil so you won't burn the clutches of you limited slip differential.
Its easiest to buy a hanes manual for this vehicle for this repair. Here goes. Remove the tire and wheel. Remove the drum if drum brakes or brake caliper and rotor is its disc brakes. remove the cover on the rear differential. remove the small bolt that holds the lock pin in place. slide the lock pic out of the spider gears. **its very important not to let the ring and spider gears turn at this point or the spider gears will fall out of the carrier. Once the lock pin is removed then go around to the axle where the tire was and push it in (toward the rear end) as far as it will go. Go back to the differential and remove the retainer clip (looks like a big "C") from the axle shaft. You can now pull the axle completely out of the housing. At this point you will be able to see the axle seal and the wheel bearing located behind the seal. Carefully remove the old seal (be sure not to damage the wheel bearing) and install the new one. You can then put everything back together. Make sure to refill your differential with oil when everything is back together. check your owners manual for the exact gear oil that you need because these cherokees can use different types depending on the model and towing capacity.
Working through cover opening, remove differential pinion shaft lock pin and remove differential pinion shaft and differential pinion gears (4215).
NOTE: THIS IS FREE INFORMATION!!!!
Remove rear brake anti-lock sensor . Push axle shaft inward until u-washers at button end of the axle shaft are clear of side gear recess.
CAUTION: Do not damage inner wheel bearing oil seals when removing axle shafts from rear axle housing. In addition, axle shafts should be completely removed from rear axle housing.
Remove u-washers and pull axle shafts out of the rear axle housing.
replace the axle seal to replace pull the rear cover draining the gear oil then rotate the carrier around till the small bolt holding the carrier pin remove bolt pull pin out don"t turn carrier after pulling the pin push the axle in and remove the clip from the inside of the carrier that pin holds the axle clips in place after pulling out you can remove the axle then just pop the seal out and install new one use a socket or something that is the same size as the seal lube the axle and slide axle back in lift up when almost all the way in the tube putting it in the carrier once in replace clip and pullout on the axle thats it pretty much hope this helps you out
Hard to say exactly from here. However, The u-joints usually start to squeak before going bad. Park it on a level surface in a safe place and make sure it can't roll. Put it in neutral and crawl under it. Twist the shaft a little to see it there's play in the back. Might be safer to just get the rear end up on jack stands. If it's a "grinding" noise that gets worse under deceleration it's probably the rear. Also check the inside of the rear tires to see it there's moisture (gear oil) from an axle seal leaking, and/or bad axle bearing. There's an option tag either in the center glove compartment, or on the passenger's side door that will give you the axle ratio. "G" code, Like GU$, GU6,GT5, etc.
4 nuts, the parking brake cable and the brake line. if the truck has ABS make sure you reinstall the retaining ring and the ABS tone ring in EXACTLY the same place. if not you will have a bad oil leak. be sure to replace the inner axle seal.
locking differential jack up and support rear of truck drain and remove rear cover remove lock bolt than slide out pinion shaft have someone push in on axle and remove c-lock do 4 both axles w/c-locks out remove axles carefully pry off oil seals-will need bearing puller and installer most auto stores rent or let u borrow them- reinstall new bearings and oil seal carefully install axles not 2 damage new oil seals reinstall c-locks and pull back on axle to lock in place slide in pinion shaft reinstall locking bolt torque to 25 ft-lbs reinstall cover and fill with gear oil