Low compression in #1and #2 cylinders 1993 eclipse gs 1.8l
The car has been running very poorly. I replaced plugs wires distributor cap,rotor, checked engine and ignition timing, both within specs, tested compression and found cylinders 1&2 had 35psi. cylinders 3&4 about 150psi. opened valve cover nothing looked to bad. What to check from here please...
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 10,000 points.
Re: low compression in #1and #2 cylinders 1993 eclipse gs...
Burned valve is likely the culprit.... or bad rings.... hook air up to that cyclinder one at a time.... and listen where the air is escaping... be aware that the motor will rotate till the piston is at the bottom of it's rotation. if it's a burned valve you will have to remove the head and replace it but somewhat easier job then replacing the rings. darn almost forgot.... it can also be a blown head gasket.... same procedure but you might need a brush and some soap water to test for an air leak at the side of the head. when you are done spray some wd 40 on it to get the water off so the spark plugs do not arc.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Headgasket is blown between those 2 cylinders. Do a compression check on all cylinders probably between 150 - 180 lbs in good condition. Adjacent cylinders will be nil. If there is some pressure, say 50 lbs, check the valve clearances on all cylinders.
Doubtful, but possible if fuel pressure is WAY low. The regulator controls fuel pressure for all the cylinders. You most likely have a different problem.
I would check compression in cylinders 1 & 2, spark plugs, cap and rotor, ignition coil output (spark), firing order, plug wires, fuel pressure, injectors (to see if they are actuating and not plugged up) in that order.
Sounds like you have major engine trouble - the first step is to take a compression test - if you have low compression in any cylinder that is the cause of the missing and you will need to disassemble the engine - chances are you have broken rings, since there is oil in the exhaust - hope this helps - good luck :O)
Are you sure you got the dustributor in the right tooth? Check timing using procedure at link below. Or, maybe you got a bad rebuilt. Here are some tests to check it out:
See Figures 6 and 7
Check for spark at each spark plug with a spark tester. Check at least 2 plug wires.
If spark is only detected at some plugs, check for a faulty distributor cap or rotor. Also check the spark plugs and plug wires. Replace, if necessary.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 185-275 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 370-550 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 240-325 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 475-650 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
Measure the air gap between the signal rotor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. If the air gap is not 0.008-0.016 inch (0.2-0.4 mm), replace the distributor housing.
Your could have a single coil with distributor cap or just coil packs, came both ways that year, check spark plug's and spark plug wire's, if it has a distributor cap, check it and the rotor also, not bad idea to do a cylinder compression test, this was you know the condition of the engine cylinder, all cylinder's should be about the same compression, give or take about 10% of the reading, hope this was very helpful.
Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Move #1 cylinder to where piston is up, and on the compression stroke (TDC). Easiest way to do this is with a compression tester on the #1 cylinder - rotor cap OFF. When you see the pressure build...you're on the compression stroke.
The rotor cap should be at the #1 cylinder firing position...simply re-install the rotor cap at this time - noting which button is #1.
Starting at #1 install the wire for the #1 cylinder onto the rotor cap...the next button (clockwise) on the cap should correlate to #8; the third button on the rotor cap is, cylinder #4..and so on.
work your way around the rotor cap until you have all 8 cylinder wires in place...ignition coil wire in the middle button.
So you have voltage at the distributor and the rotor is turning. Check for voltage at the end of each plug wire. If you do not have voltage there you are loosing it in the wire or the cap. Is the cap new? Are cap and rotor new? Just be sure you have voltage at every point between the distributor and the plugs. Good luck!
Insert each ignition wire on proper terminal of distributor cap . Ensure ignition wires are properly seated on the terminals. The No. 1 terminal is identified on distributor cap .
not sure if #1 cylinder is on the front right or front left. Call a dealer.
Before installing distributor , visually inspect distributor . Inspect the O-ring. It should fit tightly and be free of cuts. The drive gear should be free of nicks, cracks and excessive wear. Rotate distributor drive shaft. It should move freely, without binding.
To install distributor correctly, No. 1 piston (6108) must be at Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke. Remove No. 1 cylinder spark plug (12405) and rotate crankshaft (6303) clockwise until No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke.
With No. 1 piston on compression stroke, align timing pointer with TDC on the crankshaft damper.
Align locating boss on distributor rotor with hole on armature. Fully seat distributor rotor on distributor shaft.
Rotate distributor shaft so blade on distributor rotor is pointing toward mark on distributor base that was previously made in Step 2 of the Removal procedure.
While installing, continue rotating distributor rotor slightly so leading edge of the vane is centered in vane switch stator assembly.
Rotate distributor in engine front cover to align leading edge of vane and vane switch stator assembly. Verify distributor rotor is pointing at No. 1 mark on distributor base.
If vane and vane switch stator cannot be aligned by rotating distributor in engine front cover , remove distributor enough to just disengage distributor gear from camshaft gear. Rotate distributor rotor enough to engage distributor gear on another tooth of camshaft gear. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.
Install distributor hold-down clamp and bolt. Tighten bolt, but leave it loose enough to rotate distributor .
Install distributor cap , No. 1 spark plug and ignition wires. Check that ignition wires are securely connected to the distributor cap and spark plugs . Tighten distributor cap hold-down screws to 2.0-2.6 Nm (18-23 lb-in).
Reconnect distributor to engine control sensor wiring .
Set initial engine ignition timing according to procedures found in Section 8A of the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual.
After engine ignition timing is set, tighten distributor hold-down bolt on to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).
Recheck initial engine ignition timing. Adjust if necessary.