If you look at the front of the alternator, behind the belt, you'll see a curving grooved metal track - that's the adjuster track for the alternator. There's a bolt going through the groove into the alternator, which holds the alternator in place. You need to loosen that. I believe it's a 14mm bolt. You may also need to loosen a couple of the 12mm bolts that mount either the bracket or the alternator, to allow it to move. You'll probably find that it's easier to cut the old belt off (so it's out of the way) and then do the bolt work with a little more room to spare. Belt changes are always a pain on these cars - stick with it even if it takes awhile. If that doesn't get the alternator loose, loosen or remove other bolts on the alternator mount or on the track mount, and it will move eventually - not much, but it'll move. You may find that you can partially seat the belt on the alternator pulley, but can't get the belt fully onto the pulley. If that's the case, get it as far on as you can, and then put a 27mm socket on a long breaker bar, put the socket on the crank pulley bolt, and with the car in neutral, rotate the crank pulley by hand. This will pull the belt onto the alternator pulley.
The alternator on a 90-96 300zx is held in place by a large 17mm bolt on top ,, you just loosen it a turn or two no more. ON the bottom of the alternator is the adjustment screw and locking nut.. You'll have to back the screw off about and inch, then unlock the locking nut on the back side. both the screw and locking nut are 12 or 13 mm. Once you've done all of the above the belt will be loose enough to remove.
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As long as you have BOTH alternator bolts loose, you just "pry" it until the belt is tight. I say "pry" but of course you dont want to be TOO rough with your alternator! They dont have an actual tensioner! Good luck
Let's assume you have ramps. It may be easier to get at the alternator from underneath.
The alternator has to be loosened. There's the tensioner bolt on the top side (probably an M8) that usually has to be removed and the pivot bolt where the alternator is attached to the engine (another M8) loosened.
This will allow the alt to move towards the engine, and the old belt can be removed.
Fit the new belt, and reset the tensioner so the belt is not loose on the pulleys. Don't forget to tighten the pivot bolt again.
Just follow these steps to remove and replace the alternator. You will need this tools, Serpentine belt tool, Battery wrench, Lug wrench, Floor jack, Jack stand, Socket set,
Open the hood, locate the serpentine belt tensioner and move the tensioner off the serpentine belt with the serpentine belt tool. Slip the belt off the tensioner pulley with your other hand and then slowly move the tensioner back to its normal position. You can pinpoint the location of the belt tensioner by following the belt routing diagram, printed on the fan shroud.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery with the battery wrench. Push the cable end away from the battery so it doesn't make contact during the repair.
Turn the lug nuts on the right-front wheel counterclockwise until they're loose enough for hand removal, but leave them on for now.
Lift the right-front end with the floor jack and support it on a jack stand placed underneath the right-front frame. Remove the lug nuts and right-front wheel by hand and set them aside.
Slip the serpentine belt off the alternator pulley by hand. You can access the alternator through the wheel well. Unplug the wiring harness from the alternator by hand and remove the ground strap with your socket set.
Remove the alternator mounting bolts with your socket set. Lift the alternator out of the engine well, through the wheel well. Insert the new alternator in reverse of how you removed the old one.
Thread the alternator mounting bolt through the new alternator and into the alternator bracket by hand. Tighten the bolts with your socket set.
Attach the alternator ground strap with your socket set. Plug the alternator wiring harness in by hand.
Slip the serpentine belt over the new alternator pulley. Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts by hand. Lower the Taurus of the jack stand with the floor jack.
Move the belt tensioner aside again and place the belt on the tensioner pulley with your free hand. Hold the belt on the pulley and slowly move the tensioner back to its normal position. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.
#2) Then you'll need to get a Breaker Bart or a Rachet and Socket,To take the Pressure off the Serpitine Belt by using the Ratchet and move your Belt Tensioner to remove your Alternator Belt.
#3) The tensitioner is and Alumium Part with a a Pulley on it ,thats keeps pressure on your belt.Move it both left and right until you see which way it loosens tension.Then While Tension is off your Alternator Just reach over and Pull belt Off.
#4) then un-plug and Disconect the Wiring going to your Alternator(NOTE) Mark your Wiring so you get it back on the way it comes off.
#5) Then you'll have 2-3 Bolts Holding Alternator in place ,Just Remove them And your Alternator will come Off.
#6) Take the Old Alternator to Parts Strore and Have them Test it,Just to Verify its Bad. And By taking it you'll save an extra Trip because they'll want your Old Alternator as a Core.
#7) Plus you can match the Old with The New to Make Sure They are Selling you the Right One,
I Hope this Helped you Please Let me Know by Voting on the help i've given you,Thank You for Using FixYa From: d_hubbs
A belt is usually $15, and a pulley around $50.
If this has separate belts (not a serpentine) usually the belt goes around the alternator and off the main flywheel and there isn't and idler pulley - but I dont' know about TL's.
Basically you loop the belts over the pulleys. Something has to move to allow you to adjust the tension. Usually there is bolt on the alternator that is in a slot, so you move the alternator towards the flywheel to put the belt on, and away to tighten it up (you want a little deflection, but if it is too loose it will squeal - which is better than over-tightening).
Look for a bolt/s, most likely on the alternator, loosen it and move the unit in such a direction that the belt looses too. For the new belt however you must know how much to tight it, there should be info in car's manual. Generally it is 10-20 mm when pressed with the thumb at the middle between two axles, but you bust have the experience. You can check with the old belt prior to doing anything to get some idea, but it is worn and not so elastic, etc. Or you can tight the bolt/s and tight some more after a day or two if the belt is skipping. Not very good for a new belt tho... If the alternator moves hard, you can probably use a lever, but be careful not to press on a fragile part.
You will need an alternative wrench. The alternator wrench will grab the alternator for you and allow you to move the alternator to make the belt extremely tight. However, depending on which engine you have, you may have a serpentine belt which is tightened automatically with an tension wheel. If this is the case you have the wrong size belt and need to obtain the correct, smaller belt.
Which pulley are you referring to? If it is the one at bottom of the engine that all of the belts go around, you won't get it to move unless you start the car. when you say it won't move, do you mean it won't spin or won't shift position to allow slack in the belt? If it is the alternator not moving, you need to loosen the bolts holding it to the bracket and then slide it so the belt will go on. Did you simply cut the old belt off without loosening the alternator first? Usually the alternator and any other accessory items sharing the belt have to be loosened on their brackets to get the belt on and off and then tightened to get it back on.