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Re: electrical drain on batt
Check the rear interior light is not continually on in the boot/trunk. Also check the glove compartment light is also not on even when the lid is shut as they warp and allow the switch to stay on. And finally, sit in the car and close the doors. Look at the red markers which are on the end of the doors. At night, you will see these and they should go off. If they don't, then one of your door switches in the lock mechanism is faulty. Has been known for the alarm units to go faulty and draw excess current too. If it is none of these, then stick an ammeter on the battery and pull the fuses one by one until the current draw is reduced. The batteries on these cars only last 3 years before they should be replaced too. It might even be just a dead battery.
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You have a short somewhere in electrical system of truck that is slowly draining battery. When battery is too low, cranking speed and voltage is too low to operate electrical system to allow fuel etc to start truck. First make sure dome light is not staying on after you close door. Sometimes a kneecap hits the dash switch that turns on domelight. Second make sure battery is FULLY charged. Have auto store check battery to see if it is fully charging. At same time they will check to see if alternator is not malfunctioning and charging correct amount. Replace as needed. If all checks out OK...Third, get an amp meter, remove negative battery cable. Attach one probe to the negative cable and other to negative post on Battery. Turn amp meter on. It should read zero. If reads anything it is showing you have short in system. With meter hooked up this way(I use radiator clamps to secure probes to post and cable) Start pulling fuses first, one at a time, then relays in fuse box to until meter goes to zero. When goes to zero you have found the circuit. Look at fuse box picture in owners manual that came with truck. Replace relay or relay connected to the circuit shown in manual. For instance if fuse you pulled to make it go to zero...says it is for wipers and windows...look at manual diagram and locate and replace relay for wiper or windows one at a time, then check amp meter to see if battery drain continues...If you can't locate source of problem you have at least identified circuit. You can get all data schematics at library from ALLDATA free....then try to track down further...if not able to do yourself take to GOOD auto shop that does electrical work. OR.....buy at hardware, auto parts store or Wal Mart....Red wire at least 6ft long. one Toggle switch, get inline fuse connector and a matching fuse that matches the fuse you pulled out that makes amp meter go to zero( If 5 amp, get tubular 5 amp fuse for inline connector)...buy electrical wire connectors kit. Make two 3 ft long wires. Put connector onto both wires and screw tight onto toggle switch. Now cut one wire in half and splice inline fuse onto that wire with connectors. Next make a one prong connector for each end of wire. Carefully make it so you can plug one connector of wire into the left side of where fuse used to plug into fuse box. Then plug in other wire into right side of where fuse use to connect when plugged into fuse box. use electrical tape if need be so they cannot short across these two wires. Check with amp meter on neg cable and negative batt post to see if meter shows drain. If shows drain... simply switch toggle switch off. Meter should be at zero with toggle switch one way, then shows drain with other. Secure wires with plastic tie straps electrical tap, and duct tape the toggle switch to lower dash board area you can reach while driving. If your wipers or windows etc, aren't working with switch shutting off drain, simply turn on when needed and shut off when you park truck. Recheck with amp meter again when all secure...Good luck all!
You will have 12 volts /hot wire coming from that wire. If you don't, then it is a ground to the regulator/ field in the alternator. the field ground comes from the ECM. But being a 98, it can be bypassed. You need an electrical schematic. Cut the wire at the alternator to the field. Ground it to the engine. Make sure the engine has a good ground to the body.
wiring to the starter; large cable coming from the battery to the
large post on the starter is direct current, hot at all times. there are two small wires that connect to the solenoid, one comes from the ignition.
Look for loose connection especially ground. If you jumper the connection on the solenoid to the large connection on the battery and it starts, I would suspect fault in the ignition circuit...
Large wire is possible hot wire to altenator. Should have B+ voltage at all times. Need to do an amperage draw test and start eliminating sub systems to determine root cause. Also would like to point out a new battery does not mean defective free. would load test to ensure no dead cells first.
first thing I would do is check all tune up components, distributor cap (worn out or cracked), rotor (worn out) , spark plugs if new check spark plug gap, spark plug wires, check engine timing. if that doesn't solve the problem check engine compression possible blown head gasket or leaking piston rings, check fuel pressure, change out fuel filter. also if your catalytic converter going bad can cause a lack of power.
1) check 10A fuse in the batt. juction box (eng. comp.) hot at all times.
2) check the large red battery wire to the alt. for good conn.
3) make sure the alt. is grounded properly
4) gray wire sent from the alt. to the PCM
5) blue wire sent from the PCM to the regulator (alt.)
6) small red wire power frorm the 10A fuse
if all checks out and still not charge replace the alt.