Question about 1985 Jeep CJ7

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1979 cj7 258 ci

I can get it to crank but it will not stay running i replaced selenoid, coil and ignition module im running out of ideas

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Check and make sure your not losing the 12 volts to the coil in the run position off the ignition switch.

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

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NO SPARK OUT OF THE COIL


Spark is created by the ignition module and crank shaft sensor remove distributor cap and use a logic probe red led shows positive voltage green shows negative voltage. the crank sensor has two wires with key on touch the leads and find the power side then have someone crank it over logic probe should flash a yellow color or toggle green red (2 bulb model) that shows a good sensor replace module. stays red then replace sensor.

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I have a 75 iron head wont get spark but has power going to coil


If the condenser has failed, across the points, it will not spark. turn the engine until the points open. Turn on ignition, with a small screwdriver, open the points and there should be a small spark and the plug should also spark. If it doesn't, with a 12volt 5Watt bulb, connect one side to the frame/engine and with the other wire go to the points. When open the bulb should light and go out when closed. If all seems OK, replace the coil as they are notorious to fail when warm. My 1965 Shovel had me going round in circles for a brief while as well. Keep logical about your fault finding.

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1979 ford f350 has no spark. replaced coil, plugs, ignition module and still no spark. please help!


1979 ford 400 Drove inot shop did a cam shaft change and put all back together and no spark! put new coil , distributor, eletronic brian , wires ,rotor, cap, and check wire harness for brroken wires . still no spark? ANY IDEAS??

Jan 12, 2011 | 1979 Ford F 350

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1979 chevy van not getting spark.was running fine day before.turns over fine,getting fuel.could it be the module


First thing is what condition are the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires in?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil located in the top of the distributor cap is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Bat" or "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position. Then check the secondary resistance to the ignition coil.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


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1 Answer

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you my also have a selenoid problem,may sit on passenger side fenderwall.

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1 Answer

Im not geting any spark.its turning but not cranking up


it the ignition module pack or the crank sensor or the cam sensor.i beleive the packs are under the ignition coils.you can take out the ignition module and run it up to autozone for a free test.

hope this helps
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Ignition module may be bad. It should be located under the coils, the coils usually plug into the ignition module. Also might be a bad crank or cam sensor

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1994 honda accord won't start and has no spark


Check your coil and ignition module and ignition module fuse. this is a primary ignition problem for sure. check the primary resistance side of the coil it should be between 1 and 3 ohms. Also are you sure you put your cam gear at the exact mark it shoul be at and not 180 degrees off, otherwise car won't start.

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There are 3 possibilities. 1 the coil. 2 the ignition module. 3 the pick up coil. In my experience the ignition module is the most common cause. It is in the distributor held in with 2 screws. The coil and module can be tested at any parts house. Good Luck

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