My 1994 2.2L toyota camry radiator fans do not work. They do wrk when I hot wired them. The fuses and the radiator temp. swith has been replaced. I do have continunity between the 1&2 pins of the relays and none between the 3&5 pins. I have not applied applied voltage to the relays to test them. The machenic that replaced the radiator temperature switch says that the car needs to get above 240 degrees before the fan will work. I dont think he knows what to do. Any help is appreciated.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: 1994 2.2L toyota camry radiator fans do not work
The Normal Temperature Range to the Fan Start is: A/C ON 181 F.
A/C OFF 199 F. When the Engine Reach this Temperature the Fan should start.
OK. Do this simple test.
1---- Start the engine, Desconnect the ECT Switch located on the Radiator,
See if the Fan come ON. If yes, if not go to step #2
Connect the ECT SWITCH and leave the car Running and with a Temperature gage.
See the temperature, if the Temperature go more than 199 F.
Turn the Engine OFF.
Disconnect the ECT sensor and check for Ground at the WHITE/BLACK wire.
If ground exist, Replace the ECT switch.
But if not. Check the wire for any damaged, and the ground at the Front Left Fender.
Repair as need.
2---- check the Fuse link RDI FAN . 30 amp.
Check the Fuse link CDS FAN 30 amp.
Replace if need.
And Return to step # 1.
Check the Radiator fan Relay, Rad fan relay 2 and 3. Replace if need.
Ok. I hope this help on your question.
I can give to you the WIRING DIAGRAM of the Fans, But I need a E-MAIL adress to do that.
Re: 1994 2.2L toyota camry radiator fans do not work
Mine did the same thing. Check the fan relay which is in the relay pack mounted near the LF fender in the engine room. Buy a Haynes manual for $20, and it'll show you how to do it. I'd recommend a used relay. A new one will set'cha back about $&0 Keep the car. I got into a newer one and they're HALF the cars those older ones are
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The fans cool the radiator and the condenser. one fan is the radiator fan and the other is the a/c fan. The can and do operate independently of each other. The radiator fan will work anytime the engine is hot enough for the temp sensor to command it on. The a/c fan will come on when the a/c is on and the high pressure switch commands it on.
If the a/c is not working than it is possible for the radiator fan to work and the other fan not to work.
did you replace the thermostat when you put the radiator in,you could still have an air pocket in the system,recheck your coolant in the radiator when it is cold. the next thing is to verify the cooling fans are working,when you see it hot check to see if it really is hot or gauge is lying,if it is hot see if the fans are running to maintain cooling temp,if they are not check coolant fan fuse and relay and last fan motors
Several things ... best guess, in order:
1. (very likely) Radiator fan is not blowing (turn on car and a/conditioner. When compressor kicks in, the radiator fan must blow). If it ims not blowing, the radiator fan motor may be burned out ($40).
2. Check / replace "cooling fan" fuse ($1) and / or "cooling fan" relay switch ($7).
3. Could be (not likely) thermostat sticking shut. Replace thermostat ($20)
4. Could be radiator hose collapse (not very likely) ($18)
5. Radiator clog or hose leak (possible)
6. Head gasket broken (not likely unless you don't fix current problem) ($150)
The more detail of the symptoms, the better we can assist you.
Check the coolant temp sensor. Also check the coolant level. If the level is low an air pocket can develop at the temp sensor. Heated air would take much longer to trigger the bi metal swith to activate.
there are actually 3 temp sensors. 1 is on the top of the engine that goes to temp gauge in dash has 1 wire. next to it is a 3 wire sensor for engine control and choke. on the bottom of the radiator next to the hose is a 2 wire sensor. loosen all 3 but leave connected. get engine hot past halfway point on dash gauge. with ac off disconnect 1 sensor at time. start with 2 wire under radiator. it takes the most abuse. fan will come on when you disconnect broken sensor. 2sensor must agree for fan to stay on till engine cools when turned off. note this is solution i used after verifying fuses, fuseable links and relays worked.WOO HOO! make sure you check both the fuse box under hood and fuse boxleft side of steering wheel my ECU fuse was inside my bros was outside.ECU B on my car goes to nothing and is under hood. Had it confused with ECU on wiring diagram.DOH!
Look for: a bad relay " " fan " " " switch " " temp sensor a loose, corroded or broken wire at the temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator. Start with the relay. Buy or borrow a Haynes manual for this car, lotsa pics. You will need a continuity checker (cheap)