- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is your starter. They are easy to replace. You could try tapping on the starter with a hammer while cranking to get it to turn. The other option is to add more power too it by jumping it and see if that works. If it starts by doing either of those things, its your starter. Wrecking yards would have them cheap. Good luck
check starter hot wire. runs to positive post of battery. If just clicking noise check battery posts. lights will still come on if battery has some connection but a starter take a lot of cranking amps. If that dont work try jumping it.
The PATS security system would prevent the engine from cranking if the system does not "see" the right chip in your key. If the system is working correctly, the light should go off after you turn the key switch on. You should have power on the small starter wire when the key switch is in the start position.
wont crank or wont start.?? no car starts , if it cant crank. (unless push starter (M/T magic) that is not a trans sensor its the PRN switch. ill answer for, wont CRANK ! it wont crank even with a good battery (charged) or jump started. 1: bad start 2: bad wires to same. so hot wire the starter small wire, the key start line is tiny. cranks. , starter good, no crank starter bad or cables bad. if it cranks hot wired, then the key line is dead. easy, huh?
Difficult to say. If you are connecting the jumper cables to the battery posts, the only thing you are doing is boosting the voltage in the battery. A mechanic would check for voltage at the battery and the starter to check the cables.
test solenoid.trace positive lead from battery.jump the two big wires at solenoid(use two screw drives.if cranks replace.other possibilites are a fusibale link its a inline fuse there is lots of them off starter.look like a little box in wire test both sides with test lite should lite at each end.
If the switch (neutral safety switch) is broken, it will not crank regardless whether you jump the battery or a new battery is installed. I don't have specific manual for your year that's why my advice is as in general. With a remote starter tool, bypassing the solenoid wire with remote starter which is connected to the positive terminal of the battery of it's other end. Once positive current flows from the battery, through the remote switch, flowing towards the solenoid, the starter should engage indicating a bad wiring harness connection from ignition switch. If it doesn't crank at all you may have a bad starter assembly and needs replacing. If your starter is clicking using it's own battery power, your battery is low of charge or your charging system is malfunctioning.
There is either a cable not getting a very good connection, solenoid has problems, or there is a wiring leading to a relay that has a bad connections. How is your ignition? Is it loose or have loose wires?
also check the magnetic switch mounted on the starter housing, is supplied by
current from the starting switch circuit of the ignition switch. This
magnetic action of the switch mechanically engages the starter clutch
assembly and electrically closes the heavy switch which connects it to
the battery. The starting switch circuit consists of the starting
switch contained within the ignition switch, a transmission neutral
safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and the wiring necessary to
connect these in series with the starter solenoid or relay.