Question about 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager

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Water Pump Or Transmission

This afternnon I took my 3.0L Plymouth Grand Voyager to the mechanic as it had a noise coming from what appeared to be the water pump.
It was making this sweeking, rattling noise only in Drive, reverse , 1st or second. When in Park & neutral, no noise.

It was suggested the water pump was the cause and I was quoted about $600.00 incl tax to have it replaced along with the timing belt.

This evening when traveling home, it certainly changed and I am now convinced it may be the transmission.
It was struggling along in Drive, engine reving and not going more than 30MPH. Then it suddenly slipped into what felt like drive and was ok until I got home.
I am pretty sure it's the transmiison. But what can I do to tell one way or the other before I take it to the mechanic.

If it struggles along, reving it's heart out and not going anywhere fast. It must be the transmission.
Sorry guys ans gals, it's late and I know I am repeating myself. But I don't have the money for a transmiision, and don't want to be led up the garden path either.

Your help appreciated.

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It is not the water pump. first of all if it were there would be squeaking all the time not just in certain gear. and 600.00 to change a pump is ridiculaous, not to mention that you don't even have to mess with the timing belt to begine with I would not go back to that mechanic...PERIOD!!! now as far as the transmission is concerned it could be several reasons for the slippage...

1... the oil and filter need to be changed. generally this is the number one reason for transmission failure. the filter and oil should be changed every 50,000 miles.

2... you have a bad engine speed sensor. the sensor works off the engine rpm to tell the main computer how to adjust the transmission. have a bad transmission control module. this is the go-between the main computer and the transmission. it is responsible for telling the solenoids in the transmission to open and close depending on the info from the main computer.

4... a bad solenoid/valvebody. inside the transmission are valves/solenoids that operate on pressure and voltage signals from the transmission control. either they stick or don't function at all because of low pressures due to weak oil and plugged filter or a loss of specific voltage to them.

I'm sure this is probably not good news to you,however since you own a chrysler product the costs are aleways a little higher than other american models. Considering the age of the vehicle you have several options.

1. trade the vehicle for a different one. this has always been the case with a vehicle as old as yours and most owners do this to keep from getting nickeled and dimed to death.

go to a salvage yard and get what is called a drop in transmission. there are pros and cons in doing this. alot of times they are well on their way to failure and the fix is short lived and all you get is a 30 day warrenty. the upside is that it is far cheaper than either repairing the one you have or getting a rebuilt factory one. I have mixed results with this in other words you win some and you lose some.

3. purchase a factory rebuild. this is the most popular discision among owners because the warrenty is better and they have less worries, but the downside is that they are expensive and considering the age of your vehicle not really a good option.

4 go to a shop and not a dealership and have them do a diagnostic on the transmission using a scan tool. this will pinpoint the electronic side of the problem if that is the case this will keep you from guessing what's wrong in that circuit. the cost for a scan is minimal and definitely a prudent thing to do.

I hope this helps you and good luck. One thing to remember is always ask alot of questions when you are at a shop they should be able to be very detailed in their diagnosis like i just wrote. this will help you understand your choices and will keep you from being taken advantage of. I'm a mechanic for a living and i run into alot of upset people because of shady mechanics. please rate this solution and feel free to click on my user tab anytime if you need more help......Ron

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

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It woudn't be the water pump cause if the water pump was sqeeking it would sqeek all the time.... your overdrive is trying to burn up in your transmission......sometimes you can solve this easy if caught in time by giving it a t-tech flush all old fluid out of transmission and add new ......thanks brad
i work at credit 1 auto source in eutaw alabama as a mechanic call me for further problems 1205-372-6860 i will be glad to help i might have transmission for you

Posted on Sep 24, 2008


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Here are the steps required to change the water pump on the 3.0L engine.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the drive belts. Remove the timing belt covers and the timing belt.
  4. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
  5. Separate the water pump from the water inlet pipe and remove the water pump.
  6. Inspect the water pump and replace as necessary.
To install:
  1. Clean all gasket and O-ring surfaces on the water pump and water pipe inlet tube.
  2. Wet a new O-ring with water and install it on the water inlet pipe.
  3. Install a new gasket on the water pump.
  1. Install the pump inlet opening over the water pipe and press until the pipe is completely inserted into the pump housing.
  2. Install the water pump-to-block mounting bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  3. Install the timing belt and timing belt covers. Install and adjust the drive belts.
  4. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Fill the cooling system to the proper level with a 50/50 mixture of clean, ethylene glycol antifreeze and water.
  5. Run the engine and check for leaks. Top off the coolant level, if necessary.

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