2001 suzukie vitara , 4 door model, rear brakes

Suzuki Grand Vitara Rear Brake Drum Inspection - YouTube

? 7:01
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ALtc_MkSG0
Jul 18, 2013 - Uploaded by redonKiLaus
Inspecting the rear brake drums on a 2008 Suzuki Grand Vitara. ... Did you adjust the star wheel at all ...

Remove one side at a time and then use the other side as a guide to put it back together. That is how we do it at work, no manual required! Wash off the brake dust with water before you start work.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the rear wheel(s).
3. Release the parking brake.
4. Remove the parking brake lever cover screws and loosen the brake cable locking nut.
5. Install 2, 8mm bolts into the brake drum holes and uniformly tighten each bolt. Tighten each bolt until the brake drum is removed from the vehicle. If there is difficulty in removing the drum, insert a small tool through the hole in the rear of the backing plate, and hold the automatic adjusting lever away from the adjuster. Using another narrow, flat tool at the same time, reduce the brake shoe adjuster by turning the adjusting wheel.
   

If the drum is difficult to pull off using the bolts mentioned above, the parking brake is most likely the cause and will have to be adjusted "IN" to prevent drum to shoe contact.

Hi, When you adjust them they should have a light drag as the wheel spins. The E brake should be the same on both sides. As for the noise I hope you bought the OE (original equipment) brake shoes. The other brands will squeal. Good Luck

no jack up and secure truck remove wheel- brake caliper-mounting bracket and brake disc under drivers side door by frame rail is a 1 into 2 cable with an adjuster this is e-brake cable loosen connection on 1500 models the brake is secured at bottom with a screw and a clip

Axle seal is leaking gear oil and slung around to the drum? Look behind where lug studs (axle) are.

These drums should have a couple of small extra holes on about the same circle as the wheel studs which actually have thread in them for screwing in forcing bolts to pull the drum off. The thread should be M8*1.25 (a fairly standard Suzuki metric thread) and if 2 bolts are screwed in EVENLY (ie: half a turn each, alternately), then removal should be a piece of cake. Sometimes, light tapping at the other points between the other wheel studs may assist. Of course, if the drum is very badly worn, there will be a great deal of resistance to pulling the drums STRAIGHT off. I recommend SPINNING the drum while screwing the bolts in. This may be very hard to do, so replace all the wheel nuts (no wheel) so no thread damage will occur, and use a long bar across 2 protected studs to turn the axle. Then screw the bolts in a bit more, and turn the axle a bit more, and repeat. You will have to unscrew the wheel nuts a bit as the drum comes off.

jack up one side at a time without the ebrake on as that will engage only the rear brakes remove lugs and have a good hammer handy and tap on the drum until it will pull off